Its very fiddly because its so tight down the back of the engine. All in all it took about 6 hours which doesn't include fishing around for the bolt I dropped down the back of the starter motor!
I just lifted this off the Saab forum which is also the same engine. The Vectra one is more useful as there are photo's too. The forum should be back up soon going on what was said to us on Friday.
1. Put the car on a level surface.
2. Disconnect battery, safety measure while disconnecting electrics and prevent cranking.
3. Drain coolant in the system to below level of the inlet manifold. I did’nt do this and made more work for myself, see below. There is drain on the radiator somewhere but I gave up looking for it or even how to access it after a minute or two.
4. Remove the air filter and the base of the air cleaner box.
5. Remove the plastic timing belt cover. There are a few hex socket screws and two 13mm bolts at the bottom close to the engine mount. If managed to get the one bolt out ok but the other would not come as the gap between the engine mount and bolt head was not enough to back it out more than a few turns. You could disassemble the engine mount but I think you would need to support the engine weight somehow. My cover came off in the end with bit of bit of wiggling which resulted in the bolt hole turning into a slot in the plastic !
6. Now look at the gear wheel on the injector pump, you notice two extra non symmetrical 6mm holes in it. What you need to do is turn the engine over until these holes come to the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock position. Put the car into top gear and push if forwards or back to get the injector pump gear lined up. When the gear is positioned correctly the two holes will line up with two threaded holes in the back plate. I used a small inspection mirror to check the alignment. Now use two of the hex set screws removed from the timing belt cover and bolt through the injector pump gear wheel to lock it into position. Don’t forget to take the car out of gear again. We need to do this so you don’t lose the camshaft / crankshaft synchronisation.
7. Disassemble and unplug as much of the stuff on mounted on the inlet manifold as you. Ie un plug the glow heaters, injector pump, manifold air temp sensor, EGR valve, throttle valve, fuel rail pressure regulator and sensor. You can also disconnect the coolant pipe which runs from the header tank and terminates on to the inlet manifold on the opposite side.
8. Disconnect the large and small diameter fuel hoses that cross the manifold from the fuel rails and injectors to the reservoir unit bolted to the back of the manifold. Unbolt the reservoir from the manifold.
9. Disconnect and remove the solid fuel pipe which runs from the injector pump to the fuel rail.
10. You can now start to get the injector fuel pump out. Remove the three 13mm nuts which hold the pump onto its studs. With a 22mm socket loosen off the gear wheel retaining flanged nut 2 or 3 turns. With the 22mm socket still on the nut to protect the nut and threads give it few blows until the pumps shaft becomes disconnected from the gear wheel. I used my ½” breaker bar with a 22mm impact socket as a drift. The shaft is a splined cone so once you removed the nut from the shaft the whole pump should now slide out. There is enough length on the flexible hoses to just lay the pump where air filter would normally be.
11. Disconnect air inlet to the throttle hosing and remove the throttle.
12. Remove the EGR valve. You also need to loosen the ring clamp on the exhaust feed pipe to the EGR valve at the other end. This will allow you to rotate at it 45 deg towards the battery. This gives more space to getting the manifold out.
13. Disconnect the two top entry hoses to the oil separator which is mounted on a bracket on the back of the engine between it and the bulkhead.
14. You need to get the oil separator bracket unbolted from the engine (4 fixings) and the oil separator off the bracket (3 fixings). I found this quite awkward as there is a 13mm bolt low down which you can only just see. I would suggest you get some “blue-a-tac” and put it in the socket to retain it after it’s loose. Otherwise it is going to drop down that back of the engine like mine did! You don’t have to disconnect wiring loom fixings which attached to the bracket as you only the bracket to be loose.
15. You also need to get oil separator off the bracket, three 10mm bolts. The two top ones are easy but the bottom one is awkward. Mind you don’t drop it ! One loose you can push the oil separator down out of the way. I didn’t disconnect the bottom hose not wanting the challenge of getting it back on.
16. You’re now nearly ready to get the manifold out. Two spare M8 nuts come in hand here as you need to take out the forward most injector pump stud to make space for the manifold to rise up its studs and come out. Use the nuts as lock nuts on the stud and wind it out. You could use a stud extractor but lock nuts cause no damage.
17. Remove the ten 13mm nuts which retain the inlet manifold and allow the gasket seal to break. You may find some of the studs come out in preference to the nuts coming off the studs. This is not a problem as you can use your M8 lock nuts to sort this out and put them back in later. IF YOU DID NOT DRAIN DOWN THE COOLANT. When you break the gasket seal the coolant will drain down into the inlets of the first two cylinders. I didn’t drain and had to mop this up with rags and blast them out with the air line.
18. With the manifold loose you should be able to get access to the electrical connector to the swirl valve actuator and disconnect it.
19. You should now be able to get the manifold and actuator unit up over the studs and manoeuvre it out between the rat’s nest of wires and hoses.
20. Once out the car you need to disassemble the swirl valve actuator and bracket from the manifold. The only bit you need is the bracket.
21. Assemble your new manifold with old the bracket and your new swirl valve actuator and link arm. Remember you have to replace both the manifold and the actuator at the same time. Apparently when the actuator is first powered up it “learns” the new dynamics of the mechanism.
22. Mount your new inlet manifold gasket onto the three little pips cast into the mounting face. These will hold in place during reassembly.
23. Reassembly is the reverse procedure. However you may find it helpful to have available some “blue-a-tac” to fix certain nuts and bolts into your socket so they don’t drop out when trying to get them into awkward places. Side cutters can be used to remake the factory fitted hose clip connections. I found a magnet useful for retrieving dropped nuts or bolts!
one thing to remember mate and that is that the plug for the actuator and EGR are the same apart from colour. Grey is the EGR plug, I found ot the hard way and had to fiddle about with it this morning.
As above though, I'd wait until the Vec C forum is up and running again so you get the photo's too. They are extremely useful