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Discussion Starter #1
So today was doing my glowplugs on my cdti 1.9 sri, full set.

Noticed the swirl flap bar had fell off or had been taken off, i also checked movement on all and all move fine so no jamming, is it just a case of putting it back on or do i need to replace the cups.

I wonder if the last owner/garage had taken the bar off, would this be something a garage or owner would do to help with maybe a broken set of swirl flaps ???
 

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Generally, when the bar has fallen off, the only proper fix is to replace the inlet manifold.

Reason being is that only the third flap is attached to the actuator that opens/closes the flaps. The rest are then all connected by this rod. When the carbon gets built up so much that the flaps jam, it'll snap this bar as it tries to force the flaps open.

So in theory, if you stick the bar back on, it'll just snap off again when it next puts too much pressure on them due to the carbon build up. Some people get away with it for a short period of time, but eventually it'll just happen again and again until it gets fixed properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
lol, i was going to but was trying to sus why someone would have taken it off, until i started reading that they usually fall off, and usually because the swirl flaps have started to clog. think i will crack off the egr and see how clogged it is, if at all, no harm in doing so.

Recon this could be causing my resonating noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
yeah looks like it may be inlet off time, thing is it runs fine no issues at all.

Is it not possible because of the design of the cups on the bar and with the constant movement it may just have came off ??, seems plausible but then the clogging seems more plausible.

God damn just bought the thing too.

Once fixed whichever way does anyone recommend blanking the egr, i did this in my Insignia but via the ecu software, it can be done by remapping the ecu to shut it, i also had the dpf knocked out so the map was to shut egr and cope with the emptied dpf, only thing is i have heard when you blank the egr it can cause the engine to run slightly hotter and cause issues.

The Insignia had an egr cooler which circulated water to help with this, but the astra doesnt, in saying that one of theeee biig issues with the Insignia is the egr cooler, it usually leaks coolant thousands have had this issue.
 

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I put mine back on and it did stay on for a week, but then I Just decided to get it de-flapped and welded up, along with EGR blanked and mapped out. not had a problem since.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
thanks for the info.

i went to have a look at mines, and checked the actuator was moving along with the rest, all were fine and the actuator i checked by firing up the car, i then placed the bar on top as it will not stay on and all 4 moved fine, so no blockages it works a treat.

So must be wear and tear on the bar plastics they are looking quite worn, so just need a bar but of course they are part of the whole inlet and cant buy them separate, what a PITA, may try and come up with a remedy to keep the bar on.



Either way mines aint blocked YET, so will need a long term solution just dont want to go ahead and have the swirls blanked yet.


May use this, i have used this company before as preventative maintenance on a BMW 330i //M on the disa valve and really was good quality and perfect never fail again solution.

Just ordered them as my swirls are fine, its just the bar.

The only issue i can ever see with this, is if the inlet ever does get blocked and because the bar wont pop off it will force the swirl inside the inlet and allow it to come free, not good, but hey i will just keep cleaning the egr so hopefully no issues.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-CDTI-SAAB-TID-MANIFOLD-SWIRL-FLAP-ROD-REPAIR-1-9-150BHP-Brass-/151087231742

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dcKFrBUBaA
 

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AON - Administrator
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The swirl bar only ever fails because of resistance in the inlet. They often still move but aren't moving smoothly enough for the bar to stay on.

Blank the EGR using full blanks, not ones with holes. You will get an EML but it's worth it.

Clean the boost pressure sensor as that will also be clogged.

The car may feel fine now but I guarantee it will feel better with everything fixed
 

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The car may feel fine now but I guarantee it will feel better with everything fixed
This. Mine felt fine, smoked like a ******* but felt fine to drive. Then I borrowed Jamie's PedalBox to test it out and noticed some hesitation. Checked it over, swirl flaps knacked. Had the inlet replaced and it felt like a new car. It's funny the things you get used to.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
only just bought it lol, what a ******.

Will see how it goes and make a decision soon.

Will Opcom turn the egr off or will i have to get it mapped out ?, good thing is though it doesnt have to be benched.

might buy a secondhand inlet and have the swirl flap blanks put in, i will see.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
dont think it will be coming off yet, only just got it, have had 6 cars this year and spent quite a lot on them all, whats the screw method.

I have ordered the bar repair, will see how it goes, but i dont hold much hope, but in saying that i did check all and all were moving fine, full open full closed.

Am going to try the repair first as it makes sense to do first failing that then its decision time.

Would it be best to have them in the open or closed position, closed i suppose more like blanking, all but number 3 so would allow to move freely.

Some remove the swirls and blank, some remove all together, wonder what would be best ???


My biggest issue is the VX dealer who i used for years buying brand new Vauxhalls is a joke, they couldnt even fit a cambelt properly no joke, i had to tell them how many markings there is on a belt for an Insignia as they had not timed it correctly and blew my brand new water pump ( i had access to TISWEB and TSBs ). Lots of other major issues too, in my city they are a laughing stock of a dealer they really are.

Secondly most of the garages here because its an oil city have lost most of the good old school and good mech to the rigs and so are left with, well not quite up to par mechs and so causes issues and have to return to dealer as there is nowhere else but they mess up so a catch 22.
Kinda the reason i sold my Insignia, most of the work i can do myself and usually diagnose long before the dealer can but clutches/flywheels etc i leave to so called trained mechs, cough cough !!! as in many of the VX cars the subframe has to be dropped to access things like the clutch, my access to equipment like hydraulic ramps is now limited as i no longer work in that environment.

So am kinda stuffed getting descent work done that i have no time for or the equipment any longer. Many of the mates have still got Insignias and i am constantly having to help them out with their issues because VX cant or are doing it wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
just a thought here, as its been a while since i have owned a diesel, and the way in which it works is coming flooding back.

As far as blanking the egr, wouldnt it be easier to just unplug as it is in the closed position as default anyway, obviously it will throw a fault whether unplugged or blanked and would need mapped out, but if some are running with it blanked without the mapping surely just unplugging would do.

Of course as far as preventative maintenance goes the egr would come of on a regular basis anyway and would be just as easy to put the blank in, but just a though tbh.

I remember cleaning my egr now and then on the Insignia and in all fairness it was never that bad, and i took the car up to 116k over 2 years a lot of town driving.

Worst experience i had with a car was when i remapped it, egr shutdown and dpf, because the divs ( well known performance garage ) could not sus out the differential pressure sensors on the dpf, i tried to explain to them but deaf ears seemed to be shared, my car would go into a constant regen, which causes the fuel used in the regen process to be sent back to the block as it never ends, even on switch off of the car, this caused my car to have diluted fuel and the rest was history as far as the turbo etc.

Many have no idea on the newer diesels that when this regen cycle takes place and they shutdown midway the unspent fuel is sent back and mixes with the oil, many check their oil thinking its never going down on these oil burners, due to the fuel contaminating which they never suspect. A huge problem with the newer diesels with dpf.

Gets that bad that some have got to the stage that the turbo seals blown and of course in the worst case causes a runaway, some have had chra damage like mines did all due to this.

I am always on the lookout for a good mapper sadly they are scare up here on the Vauxhalls.
 

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AON - Administrator
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If you unplug the EGR the circuit is incomplete and the car will LIMP. Leave it plugged in and blanked and you will only get EML. If you leave the flaps in one position it needs to be open not closed
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
If you unplug the EGR the circuit is incomplete and the car will LIMP. Leave it plugged in and blanked and you will only get EML. If you leave the flaps in one position it needs to be open not closed


cheers for that, been in petrol for a bit so takes a bit for mee brain to kick in sometimes lol.

Is 10 o clock the open and 2 o clock the closed ???

Also went on the blower to find a local mapper that will shutdown the egr, and as suspected i have to have a different map including either economy or performance or both, i mentioned i didnt want a total remap but instead just the egr, but no. How much ?? £300, nahh i aint paying that for just the egr off, had maps done before and tbh dont want another.

I noticed you mentioned not to use the blanking plate/s with the holes, but would save the EML what would be the issues with the holed plate ? as am thinking of using it as dont want to use the full blank throwing a light because then i dont know if there is another fault other than the egr.
 

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AON - Administrator
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You can do the pedal test to see codes or use a code reader. The plate with the hole simply forces the same amount of soot into the inlet but at a higher pressure because of the reduction in aperture
 

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Discussion Starter #18
done the pedal test no codes other than the glowplug, i replaced all 4 and has since disappeared.

I have ob2 readers and dealer software for nearly everything, BMW, Audi, and many more but only the VAG one fits.

Has anyone used the blank with the holes and if it caused any adverse problems, i totally agree the gases would be put under more pressure, my egr is fine at the mo, but think will be back to regular cleaning, just dont want to fork out for a whole remap as i dont want anything other than the egr shutdown.
 

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AON - Administrator
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I have had the plate with the hole and the full plate. It didn't run right with the plate with the hole. @LeeMutz had similar results.

Keep looking and you will find a mapper that will do the EGR only. With yours being the 16v though a full map will see close to 200bhp and a much nicer drive
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Damn thats a shame, my Insignia was mapped and when it did work it was pushing 210-230ish made a huge difference from the 160 standard but wouldnt hold much hope for the clutch and flywheel.

The Audi i just sold last week was the 3.0 and was about 210-220 standard, the BMW 330i //M was about 230, and tbh i was not that impressed, now the 2008 M3 4 door now thats impressive 420 standard but no room for much in mapping the N/A M3.

I did like the siggy mapped but felt like it was over boosting and close to the limit, was put back to standard and brand new dpf as they couldnt work out the dpf software the divs.

As far as this one i wouldnt like to push it too much am para about the flywheel with these because of the last few vx cars, last one cost me £1200 for a new clutch flywheel and slave and felt like after a year it was ready to go again ( was my taxi ).

Suppose i had better take off the egr tomorrow and clean it as i am off on holiday.
 
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