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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a bit of a dilema here, don't really know my audio too well, all I know is it sounds good :D lol

Right, so at the moment I have had my current sub, amp and wiring removed from the car ready for sale.

A mate of mine has asked if I want to buy his JL stuff as he is selling up in favour of a much larger audio set up.

Currently I have a Phoenix Gold Octane R 12" Sub and 2 Channel PG Octane R amp. Is it worth getting rid of these for a JL W3V3 12" Sub and what I believe to be a JL Monoblock Amp (not sure on the exact model).

What would people suggest is best, keep the PG stuff or ditch it in favour of the JL stuff?
 

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That JL W3V3 12" will run much deeper than your Phoenix, plus power better of a monoblock.

Stick it in a 1.125 cubic feet sealed box, or a 1.75 cubic feet box ported if you’re into more of punchy base sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That JL W3V3 12" will run much deeper than your Phoenix, plus power better of a monoblock.

Stick it in a 1.125 cubic feet sealed box, or a 1.75 cubic feet box ported if you’re into more of punchy base sound.
So basically something like this for a sealed box then?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Inch-3...6?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item3f04e9f574

I would buy the JL kit and use the PG amp to run a set of components.
And for my next question ... recommendations on components please :D
 

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As for the box, yes right size. BUT.

I would mod it to get the best out of your sub, trust me this will make a big difference; I didn’t compete in competitions for 5 years and not pick up a trick or two.
The joints on MDF boxes are not air tight, using glass-fibre resin paint the seams and leave to dry. DO NOT use silicon or other sealers, the solvents in silicon can affect the butyl surround of the sub.
Making the box air tight will increase the subs efficiency. Also half packing out the sub box with quilt wadding will trick the sub into thinking it’s in a bigger box, without actually increasing the volume, hence over stressing the voice coil. This in return quickens the return rate hence shortening the sound wave peek points. This means a nice quick tight base line in laymen terms.

Go enjoy some 33htz……… PS setting up an amp properly using an oscilloscope and quality 20htz – 200htz digital sound meter is worth the effort.


....

As for components, what do you listen too? This will help in tracking down the right set (plus $$$ your willing to spend) save some $$ for the sound proofing.
 

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As for the box, yes right size. BUT.

I would mod it to get the best out of your sub, trust me this will make a big difference; I didn’t compete in competitions for 5 years and not pick up a trick or two.
The joints on MDF boxes are not air tight, using glass-fibre resin paint the seams and leave to dry. DO NOT use silicon or other sealers, the solvents in silicon can affect the butyl surround of the sub.
Making the box air tight will increase the subs efficiency. Also half packing out the sub box with quilt wadding will trick the sub into thinking it’s in a bigger box, without actually increasing the volume, hence over stressing the voice coil. This in return quickens the return rate hence shortening the sound wave peek points. This means a nice quick tight base line in laymen terms.

Go enjoy some 33htz……… PS setting up an amp properly using an oscilloscope and quality 20htz – 200htz digital sound meter is worth the effort.


....

As for components, what do you listen too? This will help in tracking down the right set (plus $$$ your willing to spend) save some $$ for the sound proofing.
abit of a question for you......
i have one of these kits http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIBRE-GLA..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item4ab6aaffbe) so would i just use everything out of the kit but not apply the glass fibre mat
thanks
 

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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4oz-polye...ng_ET&hash=item27b66ac7ec&_uhb=1#ht_635wt_699

A metre would be more than enough; you just fold it over and line the back half of the box (don’t let it interfere with the cone movement. Just staple it loosely.

Used lot’s of resign as I worked part time making custom boot/door builds etc. Biggest build was 4 x 15” subs in a custom X30XE 3.0i 24V Nova; yes a Lotus Carlton engine in a Nova.
 
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