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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, ive recently bought a mk4 astra 1.7dti on an x reg as a local runabout after hearing about cheap running costs from a few people, i bought this 1 in particular due to the very good condition of it, its mint inside and out, its done around 130,000 with part service history.
I returned home the evening i picked it up from doncaster (60 miles away) and parked it outside and all was good i was happy with my new car.. the next morning i get in, turn the key in the ignition, wait a few seconds for the dash lights to go out, turn the key to start the engine... and nothing happens. tried again and again and still nothing, tried jump leads and everything else i could think of and still nothing. so i tried bumping it and it started straight away... i turned it off and tried the key and it worked perfectly...
At this point i didnt know if i should ring the guy up or not, he did seem like a straight forward nice honest bloke, and as it was working fine again i decided not to, after this it has happened 2-3 times since (last two weeks) so im careful where i park in case it dosent start again..
But now after the bit of snow weve just had the car wont start with the key at all, it bumps fine and drives fine, but wont turn over with the key.. ive searched quite alot for a solution and spoke to lots of mechanics etc who all gave me diferent views, some said its to do with dodgy earths, some say starter motor/connections, some say the ignition barrel is a common fault and so on...
Does anyone on here know what the actual fault is with the car? tomorrow i will check all the earth points i can find and check the starter motor connections, but in the meantime does anyone have any other ideas????
All help is much appreciated
Thankyou
 

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Could be faulty starter solenoid, knackered starter motor, battery might have a dead cell... there's loads of stuff it could be
 

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Discussion Starter #5
it dosent click or turn over, nothing at all, the battery seems ok as i put jump leads on it and it still didnt work, but works fine after.....

anyway this morning i bumped the car and went a few places drove it for about 45 mins then accidentley turned it of... turned the key and it started fine no problem, so all seems good again, but i know the fault is still there and could come back at any time, (dont fancy trying to bump it in tescos car park lol).. my plans were to check the things i mentioned earlier one at a time then try the key each time to see if i could find the fault but now its starting fine again.. getting abit pi**ed of now
 

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I had this on my Clio, jump leads didnt always work, but a bump start would all the time, in the end i changed the battery + alternator, that seemed to cure it, but i sold the car weeks later as sold as seen ;) so not my problem anymore haha ,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
how often was it doing? how sure are you it was down to the battery and alternator? then again renaults have the worst electrics ever (imo ;) )
 

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Well it was doing it for about 4 months, and i'm pretty sure because every other day i had to charge up the battery with a battery charge in the house, it was annoying in the end so got rid, i got the alternator tested and that was fine, i had a 063 battery which was abit small for the engine(2.0 16v conversion) so i bought a 065 which is bigger, yet weeks later problem started again,

Renault electrics aint bad, if you know how to sort it, its easy :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
that sounds like the battery, in my case it will start from a bump then can be turned off straight away and turned back on using the key (most of the times) so it dosent seem like the battery, also it didnt start when i used jump leads from another car so the battery is ok
 

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that sounds like the battery, in my case it will start from a bump then can be turned off straight away and turned back on using the key (most of the times) so it dosent seem like the battery, also it didnt start when i used jump leads from another car so the battery is ok
do you know of anyone with a multimeter? if so, test the alternator or battery to see how much volts its giving out, should be about 12v, if you get it running test the voltage again and should be about 13.6v, atleast then you can cross them off your list,
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well the cars running again at the moment, ive checked the barrel etc and ignition and all seems fine, i'll get the voltages checked from a mate
 

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Sounds similar to the problems we had with Stephs car a while back.

Turned out to be a faulty ignition switch. Car would start sometimes and othertimes got no response at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yes ive been told by a friend who breaks vauxhalls it could be that and its a common fault, he said it would be around £100 for a second hand replacement part, but i wouldnt really want to spend £100 if im not 100% sure this is the cause as i only bought it as a 'cheap' runner with intentions to sell it back on for the money i paid for it
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ryan87, when you had the problem were the ignition lights etc. all coming on but starter not turning over? same symptoms as mine?
 

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Steph paid £36 for the ignition switch brand new from Vauxhall

It's just the part on the end of the barrel, bit fiddly to do but fixed her car straight away.
 

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The switches are pretty common. Worth changing if suspect, they are good at shorting leaving power to the starer which then burns that out, or if you're really unlucky you get a 'thermal incident' like Tasha had. :|
 

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Discussion Starter #18
lol, does anyone have a pic of this part so i could check it out? any ways of removing it? is it just a remove old part and fit new part job or is there any coding etc. involved? thanks for all your help guys
 

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Discussion Starter #19
the first time it happened i took the steering cowling off and fiddled about with just about everything i could get my hands on around the ignition barrel, including hitting it a few times with a screwdriver lol, and unplugging the plug of the back of the ignition aswell but nothing worked..
 

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The switch is the grey bit the plug goes on to.
Can swap in the new one with no coding, it's purely a mechanical switch.
 
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