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Discussion Starter #1
Be great to hear from anyone with recent experience of fixing roof (2007 2.2 hardtop) ... mine has worked fine for couple of years but now stuck closed with boot locked.

Opened boot manually and ...

Checked left hand boot wiring loom - couple of frayed wires but continuity all looks good around usual break points

Waiting arrival of new boot switch - old one is suspect

Next step buy OPCOM?

Anyone with recent OPCOM experience?

I understand the v1.99 Chinese items need Windows XP laptop ... anyone tried Windows 10 in XP compatibility mode?
 

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Be great to hear from anyone with recent experience of fixing roof (2007 2.2 hardtop) ... mine has worked fine for couple of years but now stuck closed with boot locked.

Opened boot manually and ...

Checked left hand boot wiring loom - couple of frayed wires but continuity all looks good around usual break points

Waiting arrival of new boot switch - old one is suspect

Next step buy OPCOM?

Anyone with recent OPCOM experience?

I understand the v1.99 Chinese items need Windows XP laptop ... anyone tried Windows 10 in XP compatibility mode?
opcom yes from a reliable source (not Ebay) that will give you fault codes and you can view the measuring blocks (they basically tell you the status of the switches etc.
try buying from here Opel/Vauxhall/Saab Op-com Diagnostic Solutions

Gary T
 

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Discussion Starter #7
opcom yes from a reliable source (not Ebay) that will give you fault codes and you can view the measuring blocks (they basically tell you the status of the switches etc.
try buying from here Opel/Vauxhall/Saab Op-com Diagnostic Solutions

Gary T
Thanks again Gary, i followed the link ... no price for the hardware (a bad sign!) but GBP43 (AUD70+) postage to Oz for a small package weighing a few grams is a non-starter ...

Again, hopefully an Australian-based OPCOM user will have news of a successful experience of a product sourced in China or Asia or even God forbid, an Australian dealer?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Resumed work after being side-tracked by life ...

(1) Found and replaced one broken wire (one of the black skinny ones)
(2) Replaced the boot lid switch with a new one
(3) Re-tested the boot lid catch solenoid (small one on the removable panel) and that seemstosnap back OK on 9 volts
(4) Re-tested the lower boot motor ... the one with brass gear located beneath (3) ... and that engages the gear OK forwards and backwards on 9 volts

Symptoms are now ...
(a) New boot switch still appears dead ... doesn't 'click' and certainly doesn't trigger the solenoid ... i still have to open boot mechanically with a bit of wire attached to the white nylon collar
(b) Pressing the roof rocker switch momentarily 'open' now seems to start roof open process (yippee)
(c) Pressing roof rocker switch 'close' seems to close the roof again (double yippee)
(d) usual beeping between 0 and 30 km/h (anyone know which fuse controls the beeper? or which wire i can cut to insert a switch to turn the bloody thing off?)

i lack the courage to continue (b) in case that process leaves me with a half-open roof. The neighbours would only laugh.

I'd be more comfortable trying it if i could get the electric boot opener working and ditching the mechanical roof-opening wire (that may not survive having the roof folded on top of it).

... but more importantly it would help if i could work out the starting position (ie the position with roof fully up) of the bottom roof motor.

Stupidly i did not take a picture of that item before i started and now i've rotated it backwards and forwards a few times, i've got no idea where it should be with the roof fully in place.
 

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Resumed work after being side-tracked by life ...

(1) Found and replaced one broken wire (one of the black skinny ones)
(2) Replaced the boot lid switch with a new one
(3) Re-tested the boot lid catch solenoid (small one on the removable panel) and that seemstosnap back OK on 9 volts
(4) Re-tested the lower boot motor ... the one with brass gear located beneath (3) ... and that engages the gear OK forwards and backwards on 9 volts

Symptoms are now ...
(a) New boot switch still appears dead ... doesn't 'click' and certainly doesn't trigger the solenoid ... i still have to open boot mechanically with a bit of wire attached to the white nylon collar
(b) Pressing the roof rocker switch momentarily 'open' now seems to start roof open process (yippee)
(c) Pressing roof rocker switch 'close' seems to close the roof again (double yippee)
(d) usual beeping between 0 and 30 km/h (anyone know which fuse controls the beeper? or which wire i can cut to insert a switch to turn the bloody thing off?)

i lack the courage to continue (b) in case that process leaves me with a half-open roof. The neighbours would only laugh.

I'd be more comfortable trying it if i could get the electric boot opener working and ditching the mechanical roof-opening wire (that may not survive having the roof folded on top of it).

... but more importantly it would help if i could work out the starting position (ie the position with roof fully up) of the bottom roof motor.

Stupidly i did not take a picture of that item before i started and now i've rotated it backwards and forwards a few times, i've got no idea where it should be with the roof fully in place.
I actually found a good temporary solution to get the boot working normally and the car no longer beeping. It does disable the roof but at least the car becomes usable as a non convertible.
The thing you should do (at least it worked for me) is to disconnect the roofs ECU. You can find it on the right side of your boot behind the carpet.
As for fixing the actual problem, i'd suggest to once again go over every cable in the wiring on the left side. I just had the same problem again and couldn't find the wire until I took of the harness and had carefully inspected all of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks John ... it's been a while since my saga began, but i did remove, stare blankly at and replace the ECU early on in the process in the hope it would reset something. It didn't.

From memory though, the beeping continued even with ECU disconnected, but it's entirely possible the beeping was entirely inside my head by then!

I'll live with it and leave the ECU in place while i try other things and yes, first thing on my to-do list is to by-pass every wire on the left-hand side.

My strategy there is to put a terminal block at the top and bottom of the harness for each related bunch of wires and replace one wire at a time with new wire of similar gauge.

It would still be nice to exercise some control over the beeper though!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
PS re-reading your mail i see you suggest removing ECU may restore boot function ... that would be a great leap forward ... so i'll try that again this weekend ... thanks for your advice.
 

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Resumed work after being side-tracked by life ...

(1) Found and replaced one broken wire (one of the black skinny ones)
(2) Replaced the boot lid switch with a new one
(3) Re-tested the boot lid catch solenoid (small one on the removable panel) and that seemstosnap back OK on 9 volts
(4) Re-tested the lower boot motor ... the one with brass gear located beneath (3) ... and that engages the gear OK forwards and backwards on 9 volts

Symptoms are now ...
(a) New boot switch still appears dead ... doesn't 'click' and certainly doesn't trigger the solenoid ... i still have to open boot mechanically with a bit of wire attached to the white nylon collar
(b) Pressing the roof rocker switch momentarily 'open' now seems to start roof open process (yippee)
(c) Pressing roof rocker switch 'close' seems to close the roof again (double yippee)
(d) usual beeping between 0 and 30 km/h (anyone know which fuse controls the beeper? or which wire i can cut to insert a switch to turn the bloody thing off?)

i lack the courage to continue (b) in case that process leaves me with a half-open roof. The neighbours would only laugh.

I'd be more comfortable trying it if i could get the electric boot opener working and ditching the mechanical roof-opening wire (that may not survive having the roof folded on top of it).

... but more importantly it would help if i could work out the starting position (ie the position with roof fully up) of the bottom roof motor.

Stupidly i did not take a picture of that item before i started and now i've rotated it backwards and forwards a few times, i've got no idea where it should be with the roof fully in place.
Disconnect the roof ECU, the boot will work and the beeps will stop
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That's great ... i've heard it twice tonight and i always do what two different people tell me to do!!
Weekend coming up I'll keep you posted.
 

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Thanks John ... it's been a while since my saga began, but i did remove, stare blankly at and replace the ECU early on in the process in the hope it would reset something. It didn't.

From memory though, the beeping continued even with ECU disconnected, but it's entirely possible the beeping was entirely inside my head by then!

I'll live with it and leave the ECU in place while i try other things and yes, first thing on my to-do list is to by-pass every wire on the left-hand side.

My strategy there is to put a terminal block at the top and bottom of the harness for each related bunch of wires and replace one wire at a time with new wire of similar gauge.

It would still be nice to exercise some control over the beeper though!
Sounds like a good strategy.
It would indeed..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Progress!

ECU disconnected and both the new and old (***!) boot switches work fine with NO BONGING. I'm seeking help with the bonging in my head but after 3 months the prognosis is not good.

I've added an external twin-core cable to the lower boot motor so i can wind the motor forwards/backwards with 9v from outside the vehicle. By trial and error, the boot only seems to lock completely closed when the two claws are in the 'closed' position.

Next i will add an external twin-core cable to the boot solenoid with a momentary switch, reconnect the ECU and try the roof open/close again and if necessary continue bypassing wires in the the original loom.

Even if all this stuff works normally again, i plan to tidy up the additional cables to the two boot-opening devices and make them permanently accessible via the little cabin hatch - much more civilised than poking around with giant screwdrivers!

Thanks again for your help so far, it never occurred to me that a connected ECU would cause the boot switch to be disabled under any conditions ... seems like mad design since the boot switch itself is momentary ... surely a simple direct and 'always-on' power supply to it would have been better?
 

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Progress!

ECU disconnected and both the new and old (***!) boot switches work fine with NO BONGING. I'm seeking help with the bonging in my head but after 3 months the prognosis is not good.

I've added an external twin-core cable to the lower boot motor so i can wind the motor forwards/backwards with 9v from outside the vehicle. By trial and error, the boot only seems to lock completely closed when the two claws are in the 'closed' position.

Next i will add an external twin-core cable to the boot solenoid with a momentary switch, reconnect the ECU and try the roof open/close again and if necessary continue bypassing wires in the the original loom.

Even if all this stuff works normally again, i plan to tidy up the additional cables to the two boot-opening devices and make them permanently accessible via the little cabin hatch - much more civilised than poking around with giant screwdrivers!

Thanks again for your help so far, it never occurred to me that a connected ECU would cause the boot switch to be disabled under any conditions ... seems like mad design since the boot switch itself is momentary ... surely a simple direct and 'always-on' power supply to it would have been better?
Great to hear that it solved those issues.
Yeah making that more accessible is definitely a good idea.
You're welcome. I suppose they have the ECU connected to the switch so that it first checks if the roof is fully opened/closed because you're not supposed to open it when its halfway.
Also, depending on how much more time you want to throw at it, you could also consider replacing the entire wiring loom with a new one or if that doesn't work maybe swapping the ECU out for a new one (although I doubt that the ECU is broken). It is gonna cost a bit, but it might save you some time. And if you don't damage the new loom when putting it in you could probably resell it for a decent price, same for the ECU (or even cheaper, if you know/find anyone in your area you could try to put your ecu in their car and see if it works). It's quite likely that it's one of the two that doesn't work, if it's neither than you should probably look into getting something like an opcom and see if it gives any useful info.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hmm, yes, a bit of mad logic behind that ECU/lock design i suppose, but there seems to be an additional physical lock that only allows the boot to open a few inches when the roof is packed away so why did they bother. Anyway, idle speculation, i'm about 15 years too late to apply for a job on the Twintop design committee (and i'm sure it was a committee).

Wired up the additional twin-core cable to the boot solenoid and re-connected the ECU ... still three-bonging but subtly different ... the previously bonging went on for ages (i guess it was trying to tell me the boot was still open?) but now it only comes on briefly when road speed ticks over the limit. So i guess it's reverted to a common-or-garden 'roof problem' kind of three-bonging.

Played around with slightly different starting positions for the lower boot motor and tried randomly different heights for the two plastic adjustable pillars (are they simply bump stops?) and then retired due to heat exposure. Would be a great day for the bloody roof to actually work.

Actually i have got at a Chinese OPCOM ... in the drawer ... software looked functional but.it failed to connect to the vehicle ... two or three weeks waiting for it to arrive and same again waiting for the eBay refund process to kick in. Not keen to try that again unless someone can solidly recommend one that's a reasonable price in Australia. Anything from UK is usually mad postage.

ECU? Early in the piece and just for a laugh, i did actually price one at Holden Australia (famous for the random numbers they generate). Can't remember actual $ but it was about 20% value of the vehicle. Even the boot switch was $100+ from them, $15 ex-China.

A used ECU is a possibility but i thought i read somewhere the boot ECU needs to be programmed to the vehicle. Do you know if that's true? If they are swappable i'll look out for a used one, but the Twintop market in Australia is very thin generally ... i think Holden only sold a few thousand of them ... i live on the fairly heavily-populated South Coast of NSW and only see a Twintop once a month and usually a softop ... presumably they'd have a different ECU ?

So ... i guess i'll continue replacing wires and tidying up my boot unlocker (patent applied for).

Plan B is still the angle-grinder and a tonneau cover.

Any other suggestions of course are welcome.
 

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Hmm, yes, a bit of mad logic behind that ECU/lock design i suppose, but there seems to be an additional physical lock that only allows the boot to open a few inches when the roof is packed away so why did they bother. Anyway, idle speculation, i'm about 15 years too late to apply for a job on the Twintop design committee (and i'm sure it was a committee).

Wired up the additional twin-core cable to the boot solenoid and re-connected the ECU ... still three-bonging but subtly different ... the previously bonging went on for ages (i guess it was trying to tell me the boot was still open?) but now it only comes on briefly when road speed ticks over the limit. So i guess it's reverted to a common-or-garden 'roof problem' kind of three-bonging.

Played around with slightly different starting positions for the lower boot motor and tried randomly different heights for the two plastic adjustable pillars (are they simply bump stops?) and then retired due to heat exposure. Would be a great day for the bloody roof to actually work.

Actually i have got at a Chinese OPCOM ... in the drawer ... software looked functional but.it failed to connect to the vehicle ... two or three weeks waiting for it to arrive and same again waiting for the eBay refund process to kick in. Not keen to try that again unless someone can solidly recommend one that's a reasonable price in Australia. Anything from UK is usually mad postage.

ECU? Early in the piece and just for a laugh, i did actually price one at Holden Australia (famous for the random numbers they generate). Can't remember actual $ but it was about 20% value of the vehicle. Even the boot switch was $100+ from them, $15 ex-China.

A used ECU is a possibility but i thought i read somewhere the boot ECU needs to be programmed to the vehicle. Do you know if that's true? If they are swappable i'll look out for a used one, but the Twintop market in Australia is very thin generally ... i think Holden only sold a few thousand of them ... i live on the fairly heavily-populated South Coast of NSW and only see a Twintop once a month and usually a softop ... presumably they'd have a different ECU ?

So ... i guess i'll continue replacing wires and tidying up my boot unlocker (patent applied for).

Plan B is still the angle-grinder and a tonneau cover.

Any other suggestions of course are welcome.
Yeah definitely haha
Well at least you fixed something...
I always assumed the continuous bonging was a warning about the roof so maybe short bonging could be about the boot. Although I assume if it was about the boot not being closed it would bong at even lower speeds as well (never tried it though, might do it sometime this week). Maybe a silly question but after this new bonging, did you check your dash if it shows the "doors/boot open" sign?

Yes I believe they are simply stops, no magnets/cables inside as far as I can tell.

Unfortunately I have no experience with opcom.

Oh wow, that would certainly not be worth it indeed.

I haven't seen anything about it needing to be reprogrammed (although I haven't looked into it for very long so if you can find anything that says otherwise then you should probably believe that)
As far as I know opel didn't make any astra h twintops with a soft top? However if they did it is probably safe to assume its a different one. (If you know the model you could look up its part numbers and check if its the same) but it does sound like a long shot.

It is probably best to keep doing that indeed.

That doesn't sound very practical but definitely hilarious

btw, does your car still partially start the procedure to open the roof when pressing the button or does it bong immediately?
 

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Hmm, yes, a bit of mad logic behind that ECU/lock design i suppose, but there seems to be an additional physical lock that only allows the boot to open a few inches when the roof is packed away so why did they bother. Anyway, idle speculation, i'm about 15 years too late to apply for a job on the Twintop design committee (and i'm sure it was a committee).

Wired up the additional twin-core cable to the boot solenoid and re-connected the ECU ... still three-bonging but subtly different ... the previously bonging went on for ages (i guess it was trying to tell me the boot was still open?) but now it only comes on briefly when road speed ticks over the limit. So i guess it's reverted to a common-or-garden 'roof problem' kind of three-bonging.

Played around with slightly different starting positions for the lower boot motor and tried randomly different heights for the two plastic adjustable pillars (are they simply bump stops?) and then retired due to heat exposure. Would be a great day for the bloody roof to actually work.

Actually i have got at a Chinese OPCOM ... in the drawer ... software looked functional but.it failed to connect to the vehicle ... two or three weeks waiting for it to arrive and same again waiting for the eBay refund process to kick in. Not keen to try that again unless someone can solidly recommend one that's a reasonable price in Australia. Anything from UK is usually mad postage.

ECU? Early in the piece and just for a laugh, i did actually price one at Holden Australia (famous for the random numbers they generate). Can't remember actual $ but it was about 20% value of the vehicle. Even the boot switch was $100+ from them, $15 ex-China.

A used ECU is a possibility but i thought i read somewhere the boot ECU needs to be programmed to the vehicle. Do you know if that's true? If they are swappable i'll look out for a used one, but the Twintop market in Australia is very thin generally ... i think Holden only sold a few thousand of them ... i live on the fairly heavily-populated South Coast of NSW and only see a Twintop once a month and usually a softop ... presumably they'd have a different ECU ?

So ... i guess i'll continue replacing wires and tidying up my boot unlocker (patent applied for).

Plan B is still the angle-grinder and a tonneau cover.

Any other suggestions of course are welcome.
There's 3 different ECUs for the twintop (in the UK anyway) make sure if you get a replacement it's the same part number as they aren't interchangeable.
Dunno if you do Facebook, but if you do then there's a lot more knowledgeable twintop people on this group
https://m.facebook.com/groups/30825...ivity&notif_id=1613974426197342&ref=bookmarks (that looks a stupidly long link if it doesn't work search for Astra #Twintoppers club there's also some great info about the roof in the groups files
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi John
Good to hear the adjustable plastic stops have no mystical powers ... i'm imagining all sorts of things about this car these days.

I think boot/door dash indicator works as expected, it's off when boot closed and on when open, but i will check again to be sure.

Maybe there are more soft-top convertible Astras here than hard-tops. They still called Twintops but of course soft-top is one piece. maybe they should be OneTops? or SingleTops?? All manufactured by Opel but re-badged here by Holden.

Here's a pic of one somebody is selling for parts and yes even if i found one, i'm pretty sure ECU different. Even TT has variants according to H2Triple.

34691


I will plod on with wire replacement ... up to #12 of about 24 likely suspects but NO the roof open now doesn't even start! Again, it's possible my brief experience of that was imaginary. Voices in my head tell me that's common in mad people.

Angle grinder is real though ... looking like even cheaper option since getting advice from tonneau cover maker that i'd be wasting money (at approx AU$1600 ... same price as ECU!) because of body shape he sure any water would likely migrate down behind dash and cause havoc. He (very honestly) recommended no tonneau cover and simply drilling holes in floor! I used to drive Mini Mokes in my youth and identify with this strategy.

Even with roof down, the dash is naturally sheltered by raked windscreen and i have a neat aftermarket head unit with touch display that folds away when parked.

If i can't get roof working, physically excising it would save around (guess) 100-150 kgs at no cost to resale value (stuck roof = 50% discount) and maybe a slightly grey area around insurance. I imagine the pop-up roll bar is mechanically triggered and would still function. Certainly hope that thing doesn't rely on Astra electronics ...

Plus maybe i could sell my ECU !!
 
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