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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone tell me what the the peak power and RMS power of the standard door speakers for the astra mk5.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nah, i'm looking to update to Alpine 2-way or Component speakers 210w or 250w.
 

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The CD30 head unit is 18watt RMS so don’t expect the speakers to be that much more.

The Alpine will not be 210/250 RMS that will be there max. All this is really irrelevant, it’s more about not clipping your speakers hence balancing the system. I presume your using an aftermarket head unit and amping these Alpines?
 

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A.O.N. - Platinum Member
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I have no idea on the numbers, but I put a pioneer HU in my car with standard wireing, No Amps and no power upgrades etc, and I nearly killed the standard speakers.

if you drive around listening to loud music alot (like I do) the standards will not last long (Y)
 

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I have no idea on the numbers, but I put a pioneer HU in my car with standard wireing, No Amps and no power upgrades etc, and I nearly killed the standard speakers.

if you drive around listening to loud music alot (like I do) the standards will not last long (Y)
Mine have lasted about 2 years, had them amped up for a while too they did start to crackle and i poped one, but now un amped and 3 are still going strong :lol: and my music is loud :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The CD30 head unit is 18watt RMS so don’t expect the speakers to be that much more.

The Alpine will not be 210/250 RMS that will be there max. All this is really irrelevant, it’s more about not clipping your speakers hence balancing the system. I presume your using an aftermarket head unit and amping these Alpines?

Thanks for the help guys, i've brought an Alpine HU and wanna get some Alpine door speakers and 6x9 for the shelf and yeah i'm gonna being amping the speakers.
 

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You’re not putting a sub in the boot are you? If so forget the 6x9’s they do not belong in a shelf with a sub under them. That’s not my personal opinion that’s physics; my personal opinion is that 6x9 are the worst speakers for sound representation, and if required as a bass substitute, a very poor substitute.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You’re not putting a sub in the boot are you? If so forget the 6x9’s they do not belong in a shelf with a sub under them. That’s not my personal opinion that’s physics; my personal opinion is that 6x9 are the worst speakers for sound representation, and if required as a bass substitute, a very poor substitute.
Thanks for you're input, i was going to put the sub in the boot and have 6x9's on the parcel shelf.
I have done the same in the past with a mk2 GTE astra and that combination worked very well.

I'm alway's open for new options and like to try different things so i'll try the sub on it's own and see how that sounds. If i don't like that setup i can always add the 6x9's at a later date.
Thanks
 

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End of the day your listening to the tunes, that’s all that maters. :thumbs:

I can if need be go into a very long winded reason why mixing the two with out enclosing the 6x9 with in there own serrate volume is a no no. So just a little rant :p

Sound travels in a wave forum, each HRZ level have its own shape of wave. I’m not going to go into how the human ear picks up different frequency; more just try and give you a picture of what your poor 6x9 will have too suffer sharing the same volumetric space with a low frequency sub wave.

The cone of the 6x9 is being pulled in and out as the voice coil is pulled and pushed via the impulses sent through the magnet it sits in. At the same time a sub is pushing out at a much harder force, do you really think the 6x9 can work efficiently?

No it cannot hence giving a proportioned distortion in sound plus if driven hard premature death of the voice coil.

I could then go on about sound staging in a car and really go to town, but it’s not worth it. Years of Max Power cars having the almost obligatory 6x9 sitting on the back shelf is seen to be a must do. Some just cannot get away from this culture, unless they sit in a referenced car and hear for them selves the unbelievable difference no mater what the taste in music.

Nice head unit up front (not many bad ones around these days) amp up a set of components up front, a liberal splashing of sound matting, and a properly matched sub/amp and enclosure to suite the music you like. No need for rear’s but that’s even harder to get folk to drop out of there set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
End of the day your listening to the tunes, that’s all that maters. :thumbs:

I can if need be go into a very long winded reason why mixing the two with out enclosing the 6x9 with in there own serrate volume is a no no. So just a little rant :p

Sound travels in a wave forum, each HRZ level have its own shape of wave. I’m not going to go into how the human ear picks up different frequency; more just try and give you a picture of what your poor 6x9 will have too suffer sharing the same volumetric space with a low frequency sub wave.

The cone of the 6x9 is being pulled in and out as the voice coil is pulled and pushed via the impulses sent through the magnet it sits in. At the same time a sub is pushing out at a much harder force, do you really think the 6x9 can work efficiently?

No it cannot hence giving a proportioned distortion in sound plus if driven hard premature death of the voice coil.

I could then go on about sound staging in a car and really go to town, but it’s not worth it. Years of Max Power cars having the almost obligatory 6x9 sitting on the back shelf is seen to be a must do. Some just cannot get away from this culture, unless they sit in a referenced car and hear for them selves the unbelievable difference no mater what the taste in music.

Nice head unit up front (not many bad ones around these days) amp up a set of components up front, a liberal splashing of sound matting, and a properly matched sub/amp and enclosure to suite the music you like. No need for rear’s but that’s even harder to get folk to drop out of there set up.

Wow, well you learn something new everyday, nice one.
I'm gonna go for the components and sorry to say i'm gonna add the rear doors speakers, sub in the boot with no 6x9's.

I'll let you know how i get on

Cheers mate
 

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At least you will not be wasting your time and money on the 9x9’s :salute: Don’t forget to leave some cash spare for sound proofing, this will make even a modest system sound tenfold better, also has the added bonus of cutting out round noise.
 

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A.O.N. - Platinum Member
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the basics areas are...
The Doors (Inner and outer skins)
The Boot Floor and sides
The boot lid, (Inner and outer skins)

After that,
The Toof of the car, the floor (under the seats) and the rear quarters
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Just been reading some of the info you sent me, really exciting stuff, thanks
 

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Fitting Dynomat is not hard; I use the name Dynomat because it a household name in ICE like Hoover is to vacuum cleaners. I personally prefer Brown Bread (not the edible kind mind you, don’t go sticking slices of that on your doors lol) and it’s a little cheaper.

To fit this stuff just simply heat it up a little with an hair dryer or preferably a paint stripping heat gun, peel of the film from the back side push onto the panel and role in a little with a wall paper join roller. Even part applying on panels (cut into strips and randomly apply on a panel) will give you less vibration, but the more you can afford and use the better. I will say that some is better than none if you’re on a tight budget.

Can be had for around £15 a door http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/__dynamat_W0QQ_dmdZ2?rvr_id=&crlp=28432404_228459_228460&UA=WXI6&GUID=1774562e1210a0e20423cf03fffc8ba7&keyword=dynamat&MT_ID=504&ff4=228459_228460
 
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