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Well, im new to the forum (hi!) just read this thread about common problems. For my sins, my astra g is a 1.4 16v and the problems i have encountered with it have been:

Brake fade on motorways (worse than in my old Punto sporting)

Head gasket went in spectacular style (sprayed all the fluids out of the engine in one go without warning! but i was idling, just went to pull away then BOOM! SPLAT! EXPLETIVES!) sorted that out, runs betters now lol.

Every time i start it, it idles at around 2- 2.5thoused revs, but all it takes to solve that is give it a rev to about 3.5 thousend and it idles loverly! (yes im Bristolian, sue me!)

I do actually wander if anyone could sugest a permenent fix for my high rev starts?? oh and my engine light comes on when its warmed up, stays on, goes off after a while then comes back on and stays on.

can someone PLEASE help me fix my poorly astra, i dont wanna have to buy a ford (yuk)

my revs did that mate i reset the idle valve or summin by disconnecting the batter for 10 mins then reconnect it put ya ignition on turn ignition off then start the car let me know if it works buddy :)
 
Astra experiences

Hey guys just thought I would share my Astra experiences.
We have a 2001 1.6 16V CD with factory LPG that has done 236000 on same clutch and headgasket !!
Had to spend a fair bit on having the gas overhauled but without that it's a fairly pointless car to have as it's the cheap fuel that attracts.
Ensured that it is serviced correctly.
Still looks great in velvet green metallic and always gets straight through MOT - never failed !

I also ran a 2007 CDTI club from new as a company car and did 175200 in 3 years again virtually trouble free. Had to have new radiator as a stone cracked it, new rear wiper motor and new air con condenser.
No running trouble and looked great when it went back
Again, serviced correctly.

The moral here seems to be looking after the car correctly pays in the long run - the number of headgaskets that I see having gone at fairly low mileage is shocking, it must be just poor maintenence surely?
 
1.6SXi 2003

Had mine just under a yr with 65000 on the clock & I have replaced

OS drop link
OS front brake caliper
2x front tyres
complete gearbox
new clutch inc release bearing
Front wiper linkage

this cost just over £1000 & my MOT is due nxt month, cant wait to see what thats going to cost!!
 
Had mine just under a yr with 65000 on the clock & I have replaced

OS drop link
OS front brake caliper
2x front tyres
complete gearbox
new clutch inc release bearing
Front wiper linkage

this cost just over £1000 & my MOT is due nxt month, cant wait to see what thats going to cost!!
:lol:
i think thats a common problem on every car :lol:
 
knocking wheels and Kangaroo petrol?

I have a couple of problems with an 1.4 njoy (long story as to how i got it)
Anyways first is the suspension knocking, i had a broken bolt on the gearbox so i was told and this was fixed, although i can't remember if i still had the knock after it was fixed, it's back however and now i read it could be the The drop links?

Secondly, the car seems to have a lack of power at about 2000 rpm,
first gear nothing till 2000 then whiplash as though i have just floored the accelarator.
second is the same, not a hint of decent power untill after 2000 then it picks up quite rapidly.
On the odd occasion when starting, the revs will jump up to 4000 or 5000 and sit like that for a couple of seconds before settling back to the auto choke of about 1200.
Then if traveling along slowly at about the 2000 mark the car will start to speed up and slow down like it's getting sporadic bursts of fuel.
This is a last attempt before i send it to the scrap heap so any and all advice would be greatly welcomed.
 
didnt read all the way through but apologise if this is already covered. I have a 1.6 SXI 53 plate

Had to replace ecu car only done 60k miles. when car got to certain temp it would cut out and not start again untill it cooled down.

I was told that this was a common fault

I only had it 4 months and i had to replace ecu, 2 drop links, fuel pump. Now my brake discs seem to be warping all the time. I only replced them 2k miles ago and when i press the brakes i get a shuddering through the wheels
 
1.6 8v seems to be over cooled leading to mayo type build up under oil cap, seems to be a common problem on this engine - though it was the head gasket until some research.

Throttle body gets clogged up alot, but had this on my vectra as well.

Coil pack fails

thermostat stays in open position and counter only rises when sat stationary but falls again when moving - apparently only fixable by removing timing belt to get at it!!!

All in all a good car
 
Minus the common experience:

*Stiff rear spring
*Rear brake pipes corrosion


Cosmetic wise, without a code reader to hand, as im not going to short the pins and count...
I've got a little bit of ticking near the fuel injectors/possibly sparks/dissy when running and the idle is occasionally a very little bit lumpy (20rpm max), the accelerator when pushed very gently but constantly theres a drop in voltage by a volt --- is that usual for an initial draw? and when released from about 1600rpm within a couple of seconds or so, can almost cause a stall or at least a little engine judder. (possible its a valve/sensor readjusting or the alternator compensating) --- never know properly without a code reader, a cheap ELM327 (version 1.4) interface has been ordered.

I appear to have become a little paranoid about a few things to diagnose this issue, so feel free to send a virtual slap...



Heres the electrical problem I'm having don't know if anyone else has experienced this, and this may be a little too techy for this area, if so accept my apologies and feel free to move it elsewhere:


X16XEL engine, 2000 Astra G 1.6i 16v CD (with the KWP2000 MULTEC(H)/X16XEL ECU)


Seemingly dead battery overnight phonomenon --- left the car with about 12v (its a brand new 12v battery)

hear clicking and very occasional whirring, when trying to crank it, ensured the alarm and immoby isnt on, radio doesnt have a remote line pin connected (so only starts on ignition) .... I've checked to make sure glovebox, boot and interior lights are going out fully.

Left it for about 18 hours, and its down to 9v, of course the drain leads to a dim interior light... it's a brand new battery, and a charger shows battery is full and it gave off about 12v, so i've taken it out, charged it overnight for a slow charge...

It could be the new battery being faulty... however im not so sure... as the new battery was brought(with manufacturer plugs on) to fix the exact same problem?


Today, I plugged the batt back in, after cleaning the clamp terminals, Checked it gives off 12.7v on a multimeter


alternator tested on a bosch kit --- also testing the battery clamps are on properly.... alt and volt regulator passed fine, passed the ripple test, and under full load, its got a brand new starter motor, on a moderately warm day, probably worse on a cold day since the car tends to idle towards 1600rpm briefly til it warms up...

I've checked and cleaned battery connections and checked the earths (apart from gearbox earth) and that the fan does turn off after 5 mins or so (it only turns on if the ignition is on, and will only drain 0.3v when the battery is slowly discharging the alternator load, so that was due to be discharged anyway)


Maxiblade fuses burning like a gooden:
In the under hood fusebox, F7 - Electrohydraullic PAS fuse (80A) has burnt itself rather excessively, but not popped, it may explain why it felt light on one side of the steering occasionally and there was a steering judder at 70mph, which has now settled slightly... (mixed in with the rear spring stiffness, macpherson strut play at upper bush and the tracking or wheel alignment slightly off, but none of those are excessive)

the same has happened in the under dashboard fusebox: fuse 2 (30A for fan) and fuse 3 (40A for heated rear window) --- seemingly replaced before... judging by the spares the previous owner left in there!

I have, today, replaced those fuses and checked the others... fuses appear fine now


Also in the under dash fusebox, small amount of burning on the rear wiper and heated rear window relays, excessive burn on one of the windscreen wiper relay pins.


Bit of an intermittent problem with leccy window switches not 'auto opening', but will open and close fully, if the switch is held (probably unrelated).

Did have a small glitch where the boot locking motor would not open for love nor money, turning the key motor goes, but wouldnt unlock, a bit of wiggle has sorted that. (possible relation, but doubtful, never had the problem before, but time will tell if it's sorted)


I'm aware the cat. may need replacing some time soon (unrelated?)

Tomorrow if i have a dead battery or its lower than 11.5v, I'll be checking the under hood relays and replacing the windscreen wiper relay. Cleaning those battery terminals again so they're almost sterile and kept sterile! and tracing the battery cables and possibly giving them a test too! Fun!

Anybody got any suggestions on what this could be/might be?

Apart from the dead battery, gearbox to earth, relays, battery cables... where/how else to check without a code reader(til it arrives)?
 
An ODD discovery, replacing those MaxiBlade fuses (Hydro PAS, fan and rear heated window) has stopped the overnight drain! And the car has started multiple times after.

I cant understand why anyone would program an ECU to prevent the starter motor from kicking in or to 'forget to regulate the PAS, fan --- for more than the temperature sensor needs, or rear heated window circuit when the ignition is not on - they are the most used and the PAS has the highest amperage out of all the fused circuits!)

Also did a slow battery charge over night, with a 'new battery' --- is it common you need to charge a battery when you buy it these days?... which helped the battery retain a higher rate...

Check the fuses, even if they are only slightly burnt, its cheaper than chasing your tail!

You watch, something'll happen tomorrow! and i'll scream!

UPDATE: Not tomorrow but the day after... smelt a bit of burning, immediately checking the fuses, sure enough its the fan fuse, the other fuses i replaced were fine and still working properly, must have been a big overcurrent, it melted a hole through the shielding where the fuse was! The fuse I had put in also kicked the fan cycle in when the ignition was off...

Symptom: the temp gauge kept dropping and the fan would only kick in with the ignition, with the original 'solder strenthened' fuse --- did wonder why that was modified!!!

Wonder if its the fan/coolant relay ecu module (could also deal with the dash temp gauge? if im not mistaken) but then could also be the ECT sensor...

Or it could be the fan motor. We'll see if its the fan draining my battery even though its not cycling, even when the engine is hot, if the ignition isnt on!
 
Minus the common experience:

*Stiff rear spring
*Rear brake pipes corrosion


Cosmetic wise, without a code reader to hand, as im not going to short the pins and count...
I've got a little bit of ticking near the fuel injectors/possibly sparks/dissy when running and the idle is occasionally a very little bit lumpy (20rpm max), the accelerator when pushed very gently but constantly theres a drop in voltage by a volt --- is that usual for an initial draw? and when released from about 1600rpm within a couple of seconds or so, can almost cause a stall or at least a little engine judder. (possible its a valve/sensor readjusting or the alternator compensating) --- never know properly without a code reader, a cheap ELM327 (version 1.4) interface has been ordered.

I appear to have become a little paranoid about a few things to diagnose this issue, so feel free to send a virtual slap...



Heres the electrical problem I'm having don't know if anyone else has experienced this, and this may be a little too techy for this area, if so accept my apologies and feel free to move it elsewhere:


X16XEL engine, 2000 Astra G 1.6i 16v CD (with the KWP2000 MULTEC(H)/X16XEL ECU)


Seemingly dead battery overnight phonomenon --- left the car with about 12v (its a brand new 12v battery)

hear clicking and very occasional whirring, when trying to crank it, ensured the alarm and immoby isnt on, radio doesnt have a remote line pin connected (so only starts on ignition) .... I've checked to make sure glovebox, boot and interior lights are going out fully.

Left it for about 18 hours, and its down to 9v, of course the drain leads to a dim interior light... it's a brand new battery, and a charger shows battery is full and it gave off about 12v, so i've taken it out, charged it overnight for a slow charge...

It could be the new battery being faulty... however im not so sure... as the new battery was brought(with manufacturer plugs on) to fix the exact same problem?


Today, I plugged the batt back in, after cleaning the clamp terminals, Checked it gives off 12.7v on a multimeter


alternator tested on a bosch kit --- also testing the battery clamps are on properly.... alt and volt regulator passed fine, passed the ripple test, and under full load, its got a brand new starter motor, on a moderately warm day, probably worse on a cold day since the car tends to idle towards 1600rpm briefly til it warms up...

I've checked and cleaned battery connections and checked the earths (apart from gearbox earth) and that the fan does turn off after 5 mins or so (it only turns on if the ignition is on, and will only drain 0.3v when the battery is slowly discharging the alternator load, so that was due to be discharged anyway)


Maxiblade fuses burning like a gooden:
In the under hood fusebox, F7 - Electrohydraullic PAS fuse (80A) has burnt itself rather excessively, but not popped, it may explain why it felt light on one side of the steering occasionally and there was a steering judder at 70mph, which has now settled slightly... (mixed in with the rear spring stiffness, macpherson strut play at upper bush and the tracking or wheel alignment slightly off, but none of those are excessive)

the same has happened in the under dashboard fusebox: fuse 2 (30A for fan) and fuse 3 (40A for heated rear window) --- seemingly replaced before... judging by the spares the previous owner left in there!

I have, today, replaced those fuses and checked the others... fuses appear fine now


Also in the under dash fusebox, small amount of burning on the rear wiper and heated rear window relays, excessive burn on one of the windscreen wiper relay pins.


Bit of an intermittent problem with leccy window switches not 'auto opening', but will open and close fully, if the switch is held (probably unrelated).

Did have a small glitch where the boot locking motor would not open for love nor money, turning the key motor goes, but wouldnt unlock, a bit of wiggle has sorted that. (possible relation, but doubtful, never had the problem before, but time will tell if it's sorted)


I'm aware the cat. may need replacing some time soon (unrelated?)

Tomorrow if i have a dead battery or its lower than 11.5v, I'll be checking the under hood relays and replacing the windscreen wiper relay. Cleaning those battery terminals again so they're almost sterile and kept sterile! and tracing the battery cables and possibly giving them a test too! Fun!

Anybody got any suggestions on what this could be/might be?

Apart from the dead battery, gearbox to earth, relays, battery cables... where/how else to check without a code reader(til it arrives)?
Do you have climate control, if yes then when you turn off the car listen to hear if you can hear the cabin heater fan, if you can then you´ll need a new final stage resonator(hedgehog) and that would drain your battery but I don´t know how quick
 
HI guys, i have a short story. I Live in Spain and bough a non starter immaculate Astra G 2.0 diesel. Originally diagnosed with a knackered Turbo, Which i know will not stop it from starting, i found that the fuel pressure coming form the FIP Pipes was very low. Various "experts" told me that the FIP (Fuel injection pump) was goosed as is normal for "G"s. It was cheaper for me to take an engine complete, form a very good runner, and install it in mine. Still wont start! ok next step chase teh threads and was advised to change the immobiliser, Anttenea and top off the FIP. Still wont start. engine ECU changed, still no hope, The girlfirend is beating me to death about the expenses and with seperation looming i need some help please! Please please!!!!!!!!
Andy
 
HI guys, i have a short story. I Live in Spain and bough a non starter immaculate Astra G 2.0 diesel. Originally diagnosed with a knackered Turbo, Which i know will not stop it from starting, i found that the fuel pressure coming form the FIP Pipes was very low. Various "experts" told me that the FIP (Fuel injection pump) was goosed as is normal for "G"s. It was cheaper for me to take an engine complete, form a very good runner, and install it in mine. Still wont start! ok next step chase teh threads and was advised to change the immobiliser, Anttenea and top off the FIP. Still wont start. engine ECU changed, still no hope, The girlfirend is beating me to death about the expenses and with seperation looming i need some help please! Please please!!!!!!!!
Andy

for the sake of your relationship stop for a lil while and tend to the mrs mate, what would you rather loose your mrs or the motor!, and from what youve explained therre fella i cant really give you any ideas or help,

i dont no what engine it is, nor the year, does it have fuel spark and do the dash lights come on, does it tick over and/or crank over if so is there fuel getting threw, rough guess i would hesitate at is the fuel pump in the fuel tank as that what pumps the fuel down your line.

all the info i can really give fella, also open a new thread in the Astra G section Pal and either i or some one will be along to try sort your problem out,


and good luck with the Mrs mate they come be for any car!
 
We've had the engine management light come on every now and then seems to be on a longer than normal run (it only travels to my girlfriends place of work, about 5 miles there and back each day) but then goes off next time we go out in the car. It doesn't seem to run differently when it's on either so i'm guessing it's not a major fault possibly a dodgy sensor or loose wire/connector ?? But today we went out and the battery warning light came on and flickered, then the enginge management, then a host of warning lights and the gauges stopped then came back on and the steering went mega heavy !! Just got back home on the drive and it conked out, wouldn't satrt like a totally dead battery. The auxillary belt is ok and nothing seems adrift.
Put a meter on the battery and it only showed 11.5 volts. I put this on a few months ago and should be a good battery. ?? I had a spare second hand Bosch silver calcium battrey in the garage so i put this in and it started so ran it for a minute then turned it off. Went to restart it and it was reluctant but fired, it is now tickking over lumpy and the ecu light is on ?? When i turn the ignition to on there is a whining sound that i can only describe a jet engine starting up and getting quicker, seems to be from low down at the rear of the right hand side of the engine bay ( viewed from the front ). I have put it on charge for now and will have a mooch later this afternoon, any ideas ??
 
We've had the engine management light come on every now and then seems to be on a longer than normal run (it only travels to my girlfriends place of work, about 5 miles there and back each day) but then goes off next time we go out in the car. It doesn't seem to run differently when it's on either so i'm guessing it's not a major fault possibly a dodgy sensor or loose wire/connector ?? But today we went out and the battery warning light came on and flickered, then the enginge management, then a host of warning lights and the gauges stopped then came back on and the steering went mega heavy !! Just got back home on the drive and it conked out, wouldn't satrt like a totally dead battery. The auxillary belt is ok and nothing seems adrift.
Put a meter on the battery and it only showed 11.5 volts. I put this on a few months ago and should be a good battery. ?? I had a spare second hand Bosch silver calcium battrey in the garage so i put this in and it started so ran it for a minute then turned it off. Went to restart it and it was reluctant but fired, it is now tickking over lumpy and the ecu light is on ?? When i turn the ignition to on there is a whining sound that i can only describe a jet engine starting up and getting quicker, seems to be from low down at the rear of the right hand side of the engine bay ( viewed from the front ). I have put it on charge for now and will have a mooch later this afternoon, any ideas ??
Hi, just a quick but possibly obvious question, have you checked the Alternator? Just with the dead battery and lumpy running, sounds like it's not working..
 
Hi i fitted a fully charged Bosch silver calcium battery today, the car started fine took it for a run round the block (literally) and the traction control/abs warning was coming on and off, then all the clocks when haywire flickering but no battery/alternator warning light. The power steering then failed and was mega stiff. I only just made it back onto the drive and the car wouldn't start, totally dead battery ?? Not sure if the power steering pump is causing this as i mentioned earlier there is a lound whistling/whining sound coming from that area with the engine off but the ignition on ??!! Going to have a mooch round that area now, would have to happen at the end of my days off.
 
Went back to the car and it try to start but didn't quite fire up. Turned the ignition off and the coolong fan began to run although the car isn't hot ?? Turned the ignition back to on and it stopped. The power steering pump is whining like mad until it came to a near stop and is just clicking quickly. There is also a clicking noise coming from the throttle body area .Turned it off again and the cooling fan began to run ??!! Confused now i think i will have to invest in a code reader before throwing a pile of parts at it. Any suggestions on a good type or are these £20 odd quid ones any good off ebay ??
 
Since the last post i've had the battery on charge at a standard rate and the battery is already showing 13V so whatever is at faults is a high amperage load i think. So alternator or power steering pump is looking favourite at the mo also when charging the fan has stopped ?? When erindoors gets home i will start it and see what the charging circuit is like with the meter......
 
Right...tried the meter across the terminals of the battery and it doesn't register more than 12.2V regardless of revs. I take it this should be upto 13.5V ish as other cars ?? So it's looking like an alternator issue any help would be much appreciated as there is one on ebay at a sensible price.
 
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