[Payney1701]

Hi,

I hope someone can help me my astra broke down the other week on the drive to work. It turns out once the engine temp gets to 90c it cuts out. I was told it was most likely the crank shaft sensor which I have replaced and am still having the same issue.

I plugged my opcom into the car and have the following error codes

P1895
P1813
P1844
C0244
C0236
166
163

its a 1998 1.8 16v automatic.

please HELP!

 

[_mocool_]

Have you checked the live data values of the coolant temp sensors
Delete all old codes and see what comes back

 

[Payney1701]

Hi,

thanks for getting back to me. So I deleted the old codes and let the engine run. As I sat there I did notice the battery light would flicker now and again.

I was watching the live data values and it got to 97 on the coolant temperature but the dash was bang on 90.

the engine cut out and would not start up again, and the battery light was on.

Error codes:
00166 - Engine coolant temperature circuit high input present
00163 - Engine coolant temperature
P1895 - <unknown DTC> (04) - present

Thanks,

Rob

 

[_mocool_]

Have you checked what the voltage is at the battery when the engine is running with a multimeter?

Also - go into engine and live data - find what values the engine coolant temp sensors are reading.. im not sure on your car but on the astra h petrols there are two sensors .. one in the thermostat housing, other near the radiator. you need to see what both are reading, or in your case might only be one sensor - cehck what it is reading.
do a check when the engine is stone cold - then go for a drive get to operating temp and do another test.. there may be a sensor reading errenous underreading / overreading engine temp causing your car to cut out

 

[_mocool_]

Also P0016 related to Camshaft position.. whereas a P0018 is a engine coolant temp code.. are you sure youve read them right?

 

[valer]

I'm guessing this is an X18XE1,P1895 is a transmission fault code "Actual Torque Circuit Fault",
Lord knows what the others are supposed to be

 

[Payney1701]

Hi,

I believe it is a X18XE1

double checked the opcom it is reading 166 - Engine coolant temperature circuit high input present

any ideas why I would be getting that and the P1895 error?

is it worth putting a new coolant temp sensor in?

only thing I have changed so far is crank shaft sensor.

thanks,

Rob

 

[valer]

How is opcom showing the codes?,post a pic

 

[Payney1701]

Hi pic attached

 

[Payney1701]

Also it wasn’t t the battery light that would flicker it was the coolant light.

thanks,

rob

 

[_mocool_]

Also it wasn’t t the battery light that would flicker it was the coolant light.

thanks,

rob

go into live data and see which is the offending sensor as i've written above

A 166 - is not equivalent to a P0016

 

[valer]

Ah ok the codes were from the IPC rather than the ECM,that makes more sense,
as well as temp sensors you could have a coolant control module issue

 

[Payney1701]

Hi Both,

I recorded the live data when the car cut out but nothing is popping out at me, attached are also the error codes from yesterdays test I cant upload the csv file from live data.

Also I tested again today photos attached I noticed that the ECM wasnt showing any codes at first only after a few minuted of my key still in the ignition code 163 popped up

thanks,

Rob

 

[Payney1701]

I have ordered a new coil pack and coolant temperature sensor fingers crossed this will fix the problem.

 

[colinstephens1966]

Hi Just reading this thread and after having a very similar experience with a G Z20LET (Turbo) we found that once the car got up to temperature it would shut off - wait 10-15 minutes and it runs again. We also got zero codes out of opcom and snapon tools for this. So in Opcom you should have the option to run up the fans from the ECU's well the ECM module - our car has two fans pusher and puller which are very good at coolig things down. - I also cranked up the heater so I could feel if the heater matrix got hot - a reasonable test if its hot its hot . So this was a pain to locate until I spent a few hours investigating. I was using Opcom able to run up the fans and check them to max speed (must have engine on to do this as they are power hungry) and they worked. Next used live data do not use IPC as that is not a great indicator and the fans should start between 95 and 100 degrees ours was according to ECM coming on at 97... Then you noticed it drop to 85-90 range in seconds so you can eliminate the fans as good. once it go to 97 with the fault the fuel pump cut out, no crankshaft output, no codes but it would crank. after about the third try with live data the car got hot and dropped a crankshaft no signal - so most likely suspect is crankshaft sensor (and yes have known these to fail unless you get a OEM or good quality one out of the box). You have the tools to work logically over this one and I would start with looking at the expansion tank (are you getting a good flow of water around the top, when and what coolant do you use - something clogged up?). run up the fans from opcom - at least you will know they work. Monitor the crankshaft sensor, then live data the temp - so do things slow and double check before you change things as that will just introduce more pain later. Please confirm the engine as well as you have alot of codes being kicked out that on our Z20LET we just did not get, in fact it was very quiet to say the least - the only concerning one you have is "Engine is Too hot" - so confirm if it is too hot - can you re-produce the issue? if so great if it comes and gose just monitor temperatures as this could be temp sensor - some cases these get oil in from leaking gaskets and are cheap to change as is a crank sensor - but I will say on a Z20LET Turbo is a pain to change. This can be - Water pump, clogged up due to rubbish in system, good old thermostat (you can take out and test) - the odd ball is even with a high temp (all fans should be going mad at this point with engine off even) the car should still run - and crank. So take time make notes and change one thing at a time. look for hot spots around car and where ECU is as well. - these have been known to fail when hot and cause this but I would start with simple things first. Visual check of all wires as well since they can get pinched - and yes RAC man told us the coil pack when hot can do this as well, so I agree you need to keep options open there. I am interested in where this goes as I know its painful to find but at least you are getting codes.
Check wires for Sensor - and change ask if your car is cold it should show as not reading very well (ambient temp) - check this with MAF temp as when cold should be close. - You have done in my view the right things so far just slow down make notes and have a break, think as logic will find this and do not rule out the obviouse (crap connector to the temp sensor - sticking thermostat).

 

[Payney1701]

Just a quick update. I have changed the thermostat and sensor, but car still cut out. I will run some diagnostics tomorrow before moving onto the coil pack.

 

[Payney1701]

Well I thought I had cracked it!

I changed the coil pack over and it was running fine in the parking bay. Engine would get up to about 98 and the fans would kick in. This kept happening so thought I would take it for a test drive.

drove out the bay and the car cut out!

Same error codes

Engine cooling module
163 engine coolant temperature, no signal

Instruments
166 engine coolant temperature circuit high input

Transmission > af 13-11/17/20/22
P1895 - (4) <unknown dtc> present

Chassis > abs-5.3/5.4 (+tc)
C0244 - (4) engine torque input no signal - present
C0236 - (4) engine speed malfunction- not present

Any one got any ideas on the next course of action?

 

[colinstephens1966]

The one I look at is this;
Engine cooling module
163 engine coolant temperature, no signal
Disconnect the sensor and see if it runs..... if not you could have a connector/wire issue to that sensor.
Monitor the Temp - Opcom live data is it high you said the fans kicked in (this is good)
Will it crank?
is the crankshaft sensor showing output when Hot - this is what messed me up cold it was good hot it provided no output - also check the seating of the crankshaft sensor
Where is ECU on your engine? (cool or hot place - mine is away from engine so is always cool).
Fuel Pump running?

 

[Payney1701]

Hello,

just a quick update turns out the ecu had failed I sent it off to have it repaired and reinstalled it this week and everything seems to be working fine now.

thanks,

rob