: Common problems with the Astra G



scraggadoo
20-03-2007, 02:02
I've just realised there isn't a sticky thread in this section for the common problems etc of the astra G... So with this in mind, I thought it would help other people out if you could all post up problems in here - that you know for a fact are pretty common, not just any so and so problem!!

Maybe separate them into sections for example (I don't know all the engine codes so...):

GENERAL

Rear springs tend to break

PETROL ENGINES

Cambelt driven engines - water pump should be replaced at service intervals with cambelt

Z20LET

Air Flow Meters fail occasionally

Z18XE

DIESEL ENGINES

Please make this constructive as possible!!! :thumbs: :thumbs:

Stevie
20-03-2007, 02:27
I think it's a great idea and I'm surprised it hasn't been done before!

The rear springs do tend to snap, but the lowered springs (SRi and GSi models) are an exception to this rule.

Also, rear disc brakes on the SRi models have a tendancy to seize up if they are Bosch calipers (Lucas calipers replaced the Bosch ones and solved the problem).

Can't think of anything else just yet.

AstraJoe
20-03-2007, 10:02
seems like a good idea. just tryin to think of some problems lol

scraggadoo
20-03-2007, 10:19
The rear springs do tend to snap, but the lowered springs (SRi and GSi models) are an exception to this rule.


You don't say! My model's an SRI... :shock:

Anyway will put what you said in about the calipers :thumbs:

scraggadoo
20-03-2007, 10:21
I've just realised there isn't a sticky thread in this section for the common problems etc of the astra G... So with this in mind, I thought it would help other people out if you could all post up problems in here - that you know for a fact are pretty common, not just any so and so problem!!

Maybe separate them into sections for example (I don't know all the engine codes so...):

GENERAL

+Rear springs tend to break
+Rear disc brakes on the SRi models have a tendancy to seize up if they are Bosch calipers (Solution - replace with Lucas calipers).

PETROL ENGINES

Cambelt driven engines - water pump should be replaced at service intervals with cambelt

Z20LET

Air Flow Meters fail occasionally

Z18XE

DIESEL ENGINES

Please make this constructive as possible!!! :thumbs: :thumbs:

ZS
20-03-2007, 14:11
DIESEL ENGINES

Please make this constructive as possible!!! :thumbs: :thumbs:

1.7DTi:

Turbos and head gasket issues around 80-100k.
ECU sometimes burn out
Glow plugs fail leading to EML and obvious starting problems

2.0DTi:

Injection pumps fail at 60-80k if using crappy diesel (see Adsa/Morrisons, Tesco). £800 for a recon unit including fitting!
Turbos are weak, can fail at 80k
Injector seals can leak leading to starting issues
Injector spill pipes perish, also leading to starting issues
EGR problems due to clogging with soot

saxoappeal
20-03-2007, 14:11
where do i start lol, good idea for this thread

scraggadoo
20-03-2007, 15:05
GENERAL

+Rear springs tend to break
+Rear disc brakes on the SRi models have a tendancy to seize up if they are Bosch calipers (Solution - replace with Lucas calipers).

PETROL ENGINES

+Cambelt driven engines - water pump should be replaced at service intervals with cambelt

Z20LET

+Air Flow Meters fail occasionally

Z18XE

DIESEL ENGINES

1.7DTi:

+Turbos and head gasket issues around 80-100k.
+ECU sometimes burn out
+Glow plugs fail leading to EML and obvious starting problems

2.0DTi:

+Injection pumps fail at 60-80k if using crappy diesel (see Adsa/Morrisons/Tesco). £800 for a recon unit including fitting!
+Turbos are weak, can fail at 80k
+Injector seals can leak leading to starting issues
+Injector spill pipes perish, also leading to starting issues
+EGR problems due to clogging with soot

Thanks ZS :thumbs:

mikehodges2
20-03-2007, 17:52
Pre 2003 2.2i

I read somewhere that the oil outlet for the timing chain is too small, and can become blocked - causing a snapped timing chain, and a much lighter wallet.

However, this isn't mentioned on Autodata, so I don't know. Anyone have an idea? My mechanic friend recommended that when you have the oil changed, flush it through with a load of cleaning gunk, just to be sure (Y)

AstraJoe
21-03-2007, 15:26
General: Creaks from suspension - bushers drying out

stealthy
21-03-2007, 15:51
i have to say this is a really good idea for a thread well done scraggadoo!!!

scraggadoo
21-03-2007, 16:08
GENERAL

+Rear springs tend to break
+Rear disc brakes on the SRi models have a tendancy to seize up if they are Bosch calipers (Solution - replace with Lucas calipers)
+Anti-roll bar bushes dry out and you get creaking sound over large bumps

PETROL ENGINES

+Cambelt driven engines - water pump should be replaced at service intervals with cambelt

Z20LET

+Air Flow Meters fail occasionally

DIESEL ENGINES

1.7DTi:

+Turbos and head gasket issues around 80-100k.
+ECU sometimes burn out
+Glow plugs fail leading to EML and obvious starting problems

2.0DTi:

+Injection pumps fail at 60-80k if using crappy diesel (see Adsa/Morrisons/Tesco). £800 for a recon unit including fitting!
+Turbos are weak, can fail at 80k
+Injector seals can leak leading to starting issues
+Injector spill pipes perish, also leading to starting issues
+EGR problems due to clogging with soot

@Mikehodges I'm just waiting to hear confirmation of what you said before putting it in. I personally have no idea if it is true or not!

Ruperts Trooper
21-03-2007, 19:17
Rear Bosch caliper seizure applies to all 1.8 16v/2.0Di 16v with ABS and all 2.0DTi 16v/2.0 16v as all these get the 264mm diameter rear disks, not just SRi.

lEE G
21-03-2007, 20:00
Pre 2003 2.2i

I read somewhere that the oil outlet for the timing chain is too small, and can become blocked - causing a snapped timing chain, and a much lighter wallet.

However, this isn't mentioned on Autodata, so I don't know. Anyone have an idea? My mechanic friend recommended that when you have the oil changed, flush it through with a load of cleaning gunk, just to be sure (Y)

this is true but most the engines with this trouble went into the vectra! only a couple of the early 2.2 astra's had this fault but u dont see them anymore

Kung Fu Squirrel
22-03-2007, 00:24
whats that about the bushes? i sometimes get like a creakingt noise quite loud when i reverse and come to a stop

scraggadoo
22-03-2007, 10:22
GENERAL

+Rear springs tend to break
+Rear disk brake seizure, Rear Bosch caliper seizure applies to all 1.8 16v/2.0Di 16v with ABS and all 2.0DTi 16v/2.0 16v as all these get the 264mm diameter rear disks (Solution - replace with Lucas calipers)
+Anti-roll bar bushes dry out and you get creaking sound over large bumps

PETROL ENGINES

+Cambelt driven engines - water pump should be replaced at service intervals with cambelt

2.2

+Oil outlet for the timing chain is too small, and can become blocked = snapped chain! (Solution - At oil changes flush and clean it, Early models only)

Z20LET

+Air Flow Meters fail occasionally

DIESEL ENGINES

1.7DTi:

+Turbos and head gasket issues around 80-100k.
+ECU sometimes burn out
+Glow plugs fail leading to EML and obvious starting problems

2.0DTi:

+Injection pumps fail at 60-80k if using crappy diesel (see Adsa/Morrisons/Tesco). £800 for a recon unit including fitting!
+Turbos are weak, can fail at 80k
+Injector seals can leak leading to starting issues
+Injector spill pipes perish, also leading to starting issues
+EGR problems due to clogging with soot

Coming on good people, I'm sure there's more that can be added! Keep 'em coming :thumbs:

scraggadoo
25-03-2007, 22:45
Any more additions that could be made? This is for the benefit of everyone!!

J12 MKW
26-03-2007, 19:38
on the astra z18xe and the 1.6 8v the ticking noise coming from the engine cambelt area on start up (not carbon canister) seems to be a common one seen a thread on that one a few times.

Doddsy
27-03-2007, 10:55
I have had faults with my alarm in the past where the power sounder had to be replaced two or three times. Good idea for a thread.

Richsxi
28-03-2007, 20:15
Yeah i've found a ticking sound from the engine from cold. I'm starting to get really picky about things.....or should i???

mac
28-03-2007, 20:19
Had to change the oil cooler at around 35K miles on the 1.7Dti, the cooler itself is not too expensive, but its a pain to replace as there are a lot of piping around. Also the cooling system will need a good flush as it will get contaminated with oil. They seem to fail often here, could be bec of hot weather here at Malta?
Also a common problem is alternator failour...touch wood, mine is still going!

Wardie
28-03-2007, 20:23
The only problem i've found with the z18xe is the airflow meters dont like induction kits, stick with a panel filter, took me 2 air flow meters to realise this, i also get the ticking sound on start up but it tends to fade as the engine warms.

stealthy
30-03-2007, 06:58
i have found a unique problem on all astra G's :( they dont clean themselves lol......







sorry couldnt help myself

orie0505
31-03-2007, 09:59
Cambelt driven engines - water pump should be replaced at service intervals with cambelt


I have a 1.6 8v (don't laugh!) and to the best of my knowledge, the above suggestion only applies to 16v engines, not 8v's. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Ruperts Trooper
31-03-2007, 12:33
I have a 1.6 8v (don't laugh!) and to the best of my knowledge, the above suggestion only applies to 16v engines, not 8v's. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I wouldn't laugh but I do think you're wrong - it's even more important to change the water pump at same time as cambelt on an 8v - at 80k change interval, the water pump won't have much life left in it and will only double your costs if you leave it.

ABYSS
31-03-2007, 12:41
Ive made this a sticky ;)

Nozza
31-03-2007, 15:16
I have a 1.6 8v (don't laugh!) and to the best of my knowledge, the above suggestion only applies to 16v engines, not 8v's. Correct me if I'm wrong.
No ones laughing fella, i own one me self :)

C'MON the 8 valves

jiraffe
02-04-2007, 12:57
Dont for get the EGR valve on the G.

mikephillips
17-04-2007, 22:32
my suspension is squeaky 03 plate 1.8 sxi and emission problem

dr_shabzzz
26-04-2007, 23:45
broken bloody ashtrays...spring flys out and it never shuts...

29badboy
04-05-2007, 06:43
The drop links on the front suspension wear - not enough to fail an mot BUT enough so you get a knocking noise from the front suspension when going over bumpy road surfaces, just had mine done, loads better, car had only done 40,000 miles. (Y)

Johnnyrs
05-05-2007, 23:15
Don't know how common a problem this is, but worth warning Father/Mums about...

My darling 3 year old had a "play" in Dad's pride and joy and swung off the rear view mirror. It popped off and was handed to me. It popped back on. Great, I thought, problem solved... er, no. While it sits nicely in place, it's lost its tightness and the switch to make it anti-glare merely makes the mirror swing wildly from side to side. Bugger - local Holden (Australasian GM) dealer advises the whole unit needs replacing as it can't be fixed and the installation requires a Glazier.

Not sure of the price, but over $NZ 200 so it'll have to wait.

leonsridti
11-05-2007, 00:11
well i can gladly report that my 2.0 dti has done 88000 and so far none of the problems mentioned seem 2 hav occured thank the good lord

Addyamos
31-05-2007, 00:43
The water pump thing is a mistake i made, had the cambelt changed about 5k ago n now the waterpumps on its way, meaning to replace the waterpump the cambelt also has to be done! :( ...more expence!

top_totty
13-07-2007, 12:49
ok, when driving along the drivers seat just squeaks and squeaks when i go over bumps!! it so annoying! does anyone else's do this??

scousy22
13-07-2007, 13:22
mine does this too,just the drivers seat for sum reason

HoldenSRI
27-07-2007, 18:41
There are two recalls on the G

One is the seats on the 3 door the spring can go making it hard to move them and producing a squeak.

The other is brake fluid contamination due to a bad batch of brake callipers.

KatGSi
28-07-2007, 10:25
power sounders go occasionally mine have twice in the middle of the night the only way to stop it is to leave it unlocked, bloody annoying

jiraffe
28-07-2007, 10:30
power sounders go occasionally mine have twice in the middle of the night the only way to stop it is to leave it unlocked, bloody annoying


Or change it for a new one 9194454 (Y)

KatGSi
28-07-2007, 10:43
yeah they have now but i still don`t trust them

DUNKZ2006
12-08-2007, 12:33
power sounders go occasionally mine have twice in the middle of the night the only way to stop it is to leave it unlocked, bloody annoying

Hi m8 i know its a pain cos it happened to me but go through passenger door and lock it by hand thats what i did better than leaving it unlocked eh(Y)

johnny4
24-08-2007, 19:01
hi i wonder if anyone can help, i got a mk4 astra 1.4 16v ls n i keep having a problem with it cutting out. the car could be going along fine and the engine will just cut off and you loose all power and the ignition lights on the dash will appear. after its cut off the car will no longer start until left off for about 10mins but the engine temperature stays fine when running. it doesn't come out with any fault reading on the dash either. i suspect it could be the coil pack as the car has done 85000. has anyone else had this problem?

Animal
24-08-2007, 19:20
My seat squeeks but i am an 18stone prop so think this may add to the problem lol lol

daddy_barry
25-08-2007, 00:44
im being informed a garage that a faulty ecu unit is quite a common fault with the g's.

Ali_sri
25-08-2007, 16:34
the rocker cover gasket, mines has been done 3 times in the last 6 months , think i will do it my self this time, does any one else have this problem?

Stewpod
01-09-2007, 17:03
Fitted new cd player now got alarm problems, and the drivers seat squeaks all the time. Other than that good so far.

wolfie123
04-09-2007, 17:28
hi
i have not long bought a 2.0 sri and inherited a lot of problems!
loud rumbling noise- had both rear hubs replaced.
revs rise but acceleration doesnt rise accordingly and engine management light comes on now and again leadin to rough running.
have had a new clutch and cam sensor? rough running has gone but rumble is still there and so is acceleration problem!( mainly in 1st and 2nd, pick up is ok after that)
please can anyone shed any light as i am £600 lighter and cant afford to keep going at this rate!!
thanks
stef:'(

deeayen
04-09-2007, 17:38
only major problem for me is the skeaking seat too!!!

gtirob1
04-09-2007, 20:42
I have a shaking in the front wheels and balancing and tracking are fine, all seems tight except i kicked front wheels and drivers side made a metallic clunk noise. The shaking is like an out of shape tyre but tyres are new and wheels are fine, anyone had the same?

Gizmo_SXi
06-09-2007, 18:29
I had the squeeking seat problem, quick blast with WD40 on the runners and job done, hasnt squeeked again in 8K miles :D

dav806
11-09-2007, 10:38
Hi All

My seat squeaks too, Evans Halshaw in Wigan are supposed to be replacing the seat upright cos the previous owner has worn a hole in it! I was going to ask them to grease everything to hopefully stop the squeaks when they replace the upright but I've now had the car 18 weeks and the seat has been ordered 3 times, last time 4 weeks ago! Is there a problem getting hold of the interior for an SXI? or are Evans really not interested!?!:confused:

locky
20-09-2007, 18:34
When I took my 51 1.6 8v to have it's annual service with Vauxhall, they told me that this engine was being recalled so that the EGR valve could be replaced. Trouble is though I'd already had it done! Might be worth asking, if it hasn't already been done!

Just bought a "new" 51 1.6 16v, from a **** dealer (ducks). They did the cambelt, but I don't think (probably certain actually) the water pump wasn't done. Looks like it's going back!

locky
20-09-2007, 18:45
Don't know how common a problem this is, but worth warning Father/Mums about...

My darling 3 year old had a "play" in Dad's pride and joy and swung off the rear view mirror. It popped off and was handed to me. It popped back on. Great, I thought, problem solved... er, no. While it sits nicely in place, it's lost its tightness and the switch to make it anti-glare merely makes the mirror swing wildly from side to side. Bugger - local Holden (Australasian GM) dealer advises the whole unit needs replacing as it can't be fixed and the installation requires a Glazier.

Not sure of the price, but over $NZ 200 so it'll have to wait.

I removed mine a few months back, using my head (Don't ask!)! Don't know why GM have told you that, must be GM international company policy to talk ***** to it's customers! I used a small piece of cloth in the hole on the mirror for a temporary fix, then I scoured Ebay for a replacement! Sorted!

Johnnyrs
25-09-2007, 21:02
I removed mine a few months back, using my head (Don't ask!)! Don't know why GM have told you that, must be GM international company policy to talk ***** to it's customers! I used a small piece of cloth in the hole on the mirror for a temporary fix, then I scoured Ebay for a replacement! Sorted!

Hey Locky, so if I get this right, you just put the material in the hole to make the mirror not swivel so much on the ball pivot? Did the anti glare switch thing still work?

And how did you mount the new mirror? Did it just clip into the old hole or did the bracket come off?

Cheers,

locky
26-09-2007, 18:20
The anti-glare still works, sort of. Might just be a bit hard to flick the mirror with one hand.

If you look in the mirror's hole it'll be cracked slighty, just enough to stop the ball fitting correctly, just place a flat piece of material over the hole (slightly bigger than the hole itself), then push the mirror onto the ball, it should then hold tight enough until you find a replacement.

aw82
26-09-2007, 20:53
Pre 2003 2.2i

I read somewhere that the oil outlet for the timing chain is too small, and can become blocked - causing a snapped timing chain, and a much lighter wallet.

However, this isn't mentioned on Autodata, so I don't know. Anyone have an idea? My mechanic friend recommended that when you have the oil changed, flush it through with a load of cleaning gunk, just to be sure (Y)

Just had my astra 2.2 sri 51 reg timing chain done, car was jerking while idling and missing. Garage said chain tensioners had dried due to lack of oil getting to tensioners. They also stripped engine down to blow all the oilways clear, got hit hard in the pocket!

aw82
26-09-2007, 20:59
Just had my timing chain done on 2.2 sri 51 reg due to tensioners drying out, also had engine stripped to have oilways blown out. Had it back 1 day and engine manigement light came on and car lost power and missing sound. Took it back and they blocked the EGR vale off, but now the engine manigement light is constantly on, but car running like a dream!!!

Any thoughts?

LAD VXL
26-09-2007, 21:22
Ok you guys have me worried now...i read the title and though "i've not had any probs" but now its up to 4 pages i feel i best start reading :sus:

Johnnyrs
27-09-2007, 01:03
The anti-glare still works, sort of. Might just be a bit hard to flick the mirror with one hand.

If you look in the mirror's hole it'll be cracked slighty, just enough to stop the ball fitting correctly, just place a flat piece of material over the hole (slightly bigger than the hole itself), then push the mirror onto the ball, it should then hold tight enough until you find a replacement.


Thanks Locky - how did you fit the replacement? Was it just the mirror or the bracket as well?

jiraffe
27-09-2007, 08:30
Ok you guys have me worried now...i read the title and though "i've not had any probs" but now its up to 4 pages i feel i best start reading :sus:

:lol: :lol:

locky
27-09-2007, 18:28
Thanks Locky - how did you fit the replacement? Was it just the mirror or the bracket as well?

The replacement fitted easily. Unfortunately the first one I received (which was just the mirror) I ended up pushing on a bit too forcefully, resulting in that too breaking!

The other one I eventually got hold of was with the bracket too. The old one just slides off the windscreen, allowing the new one to slot into place. :thumbs:

melv
27-09-2007, 18:50
engine warning light..on sxi.. could be just my car, it came on due to temperature guage wire broke. i have no idea what this is this time but.. its back on again.
also my clutch is sticky i think.. well it sort of locks in gear when u balance it or hold the clutch down at traffic lights.
took it to garage and all they said is your not suppose to hold the clutch down. take it out gear and put handbrake on. annoying though when in traffic or tryin to dip clutch while reversing down the alley to my garage. i got to turn off car to get it out of gear. ( its like it started to release and move forward even with feet on clutch. only my foot on brake to hold car from moving).
Any suggestions at all?

swilliams1719@hotm
27-09-2007, 20:03
can anyone help me out on the diagnosis for this fault. I can only persume it is the altenator blowing? does this sound familiar to anybody else?

swilliams1719@hotm
27-09-2007, 20:09
I have a shaking in the front wheels and balancing and tracking are fine, all seems tight except i kicked front wheels and drivers side made a metallic clunk noise. The shaking is like an out of shape tyre but tyres are new and wheels are fine, anyone had the same?

I think mate your problem is likely to be your bearings. I had the same problem and now my tracking is probably the best in the uk as i was convinced that was what the fault was. On changing the bearings however i have had no problems with any shaking at all pal.
Steve:thumbs:

ian.vxr
11-10-2007, 23:12
ok, when driving along the drivers seat just squeaks and squeaks when i go over bumps!! it so annoying! does anyone else's do this??

yep know that one!! also mine clicks when i move in the seat!! but it ok when the mrs is driving it!
must be one too many maccy burgers! lol.

ian.vxr
11-10-2007, 23:19
Hi All

My seat squeaks too, Evans Halshaw in Wigan are supposed to be replacing the seat upright cos the previous owner has worn a hole in it! I was going to ask them to grease everything to hopefully stop the squeaks when they replace the upright but I've now had the car 18 weeks and the seat has been ordered 3 times, last time 4 weeks ago! Is there a problem getting hold of the interior for an SXI? or are Evans really not interested!?!:confused:

same sort of thing mine at the time had only done20k (9 months ago) and my seat was wearing really bad, looked like it was out of a old banger! took it to twells near sleaford for some warrenty work (sreenwash pump had packed up) and showed them the seat, and they told me that all interior parts are only covered in the 1st year of the warrenty! is this right or am i being fobbed off?

jonnyboy0
23-10-2007, 20:30
I think it's a great idea and I'm surprised it hasn't been done before!

The rear springs do tend to snap, but the lowered springs (SRi and GSi models) are an exception to this rule.

Also, rear disc brakes on the SRi models have a tendancy to seize up if they are Bosch calipers (Lucas calipers replaced the Bosch ones and solved the problem).

Can't think of anything else just yet.

Can anyone help?? New member to AON. I am freezing at the moment. The heater is not working at all, the fan works ok kind of, but blows cold air. The rear window defrost doesnt work either. Temp guage on cer etc is fine, no other running problems. Any advice would be much appreciated!
Thanks!!

jiraffe
23-10-2007, 20:34
Best for you to start a new Thread in Astra G forum and ask in there more people will see it (Y)

Oh and pop in here and say hi (Introduction Area)

Rusty-Flange
24-10-2007, 16:48
EGR valve is apparently a common fault on diesel G's :( mine has just been replaced!

Also I got a squeaky gearstick ... every change it makes noises, I didn't hear it til Ka$h pointed it out and now it drives me mad!!! is this just me?

lockie2002
31-10-2007, 23:44
Z22SE - Use 1ltr of oil every 1k miles no fail and as before Oil jet to timing chain gets blocked due it being small leading to timing chain failure.
When timing chain is changed make sure that oil jet is included in timing chain kit!

turna16v
09-11-2007, 17:25
The EGR valve had to be replaced on my 1.6 16v engine. Iv spoke to quite a few people, mechanics and forums, its a VERY common problem around 2002. the engines just stall and won't start. Then the engine light will show, if the EGR does not solve this, its the fuel pump relay that needs doing. Vauxhall dealer said they have had no end of these done on the network Q warranty.

superjody
08-12-2007, 16:21
anyone on here put in new front speakers???? on my old sri 3dr i did, when it rained i noticed a little bit of water sitting on the rubber seal and the plastic trim but never thought much of it......untill our very wet summer :( lots of water had made its way down under the carpet and sound proofing, it was awfull. there was over 3 litres of water. i had to strip out all the carpets and get them dry.
the water had been coming through the back of the speakers and the plastic trim. i changed the door seals and put tome sealer all around the speakers, was fine after that.


just changed the front ones in my sri today and the passenger side speaker has the same problem, water is getting to it :( iv sealed it down and will just have to wait and see

fattygez
08-12-2007, 19:53
i changed mine about a month ago and all was dry then ..last week i had the windows tinted so they had the door panels off to get the glass out and still all dry!!!

Alan Hanson
10-12-2007, 09:42
Think the coil packs are another common fault

superjody
10-12-2007, 17:23
yup i had 2 oil packs go on 2 astras, it lost all power and made a loud farting noise :( bugger

jiraffe
10-12-2007, 17:30
Think the coil packs are another common fault


Not as common as they used to be

Rear springs is another to if thats not on here all ready do a fair few of them the last month

Alan Hanson
10-12-2007, 19:42
what problems did keep comin up with regards to the rear springs?

jiraffe
11-12-2007, 17:04
They dont last long and brake

robertcodfather
18-01-2008, 17:37
:confused: I have noticed that my Right Turn indicator occasionaly Stays on and stops flashing, and also i can see just above the Fuel Gauge in the bottom of the Speedometer area where other lights can light up, i have noticed a green Flat line that only light up when i have this problem. i can stop the engine take the keys out of the ignition and the right turn indicator lights will still be illuminated. This Problem only last,s for a short while then everything goes back to normal.
Any Advice would be most welcome

stardustinc
07-02-2008, 20:52
A simbol has lite up on my dash board wihich shows a car with a spanner symbol over it. Its apparently a warning for the engine electronics. Is there a common fault which could cause this in my 2001 1.8I astra cab?

robertcodfather
08-02-2008, 00:32
A simbol has lite up on my dash board wihich shows a car with a spanner symbol over it. Its apparently a warning for the engine electronics. Is there a common fault which could cause this in my 2001 1.8I astra cab?

Hi The symbol with the car and a spanner on it is to do with the Engine Electronics, Immobilizer
Petrol Engine, it should light up for a few seconds when ignition is switched on, then go out.
If it lights up when the engine is running.
Fault in the engine electronics system. The electronic system switches to an emergency Running programme. Fuel consumption may be increased and the driveability of the vehicle may be impaired.
If you have a spare Key try and start the car with the other key.
If the problem is still there you will have to have the car connected to a computer to find the fault. at a vauxhall dealership.
I Hope this is of some use to you
Rob

astralee
08-02-2008, 00:44
whats that about the bushes? i sometimes get like a creakingt noise quite loud when i reverse and come to a stop

hi,i get a creaking noise when i turn any left turn??????

astralee
08-02-2008, 13:30
hi lads.has anyone got this problem,i own an s reg astra g 1.8 16v.when engine has been running for afew minutes and you lift the bonnet you can smell petrol?also is poor on fuel i think,any ideas?????????

astralee
08-02-2008, 13:31
oh and by the way i cant see any leaks of petrol!!!!!!!!!!

ASTRA-BIKER
05-03-2008, 22:10
heads are apparently prone to cracking.

not heard of it before, but the plate that sits under the injector nozzle,and sits flush with the face of the head, that guides diesel into center of combustion chamber came loose on mine, and vibrated on the head gasket, cutting through the top layer of the gasket, which was enough for it to use a load of water and make it a bitch to start

scraggadoo
06-03-2008, 10:24
This may seem a little obvious but only trying to help.

If you have any questions to ask regarding issues with your car, you're better off asking in the open Astra G Chat section rather than here. More people look through the Astra G Chat forum at any given time rather than this thread.

This section tends to be a list of issues that are common and just the first bit of information you can get if you have such an issue. Any questions, please refer to Astra G Chat forum. You WILL get a better response than if you post it here. I'm only trying to be helpful.

If you have found an issue that isn't listed here, feel free to list it, along with details.

melv
14-03-2008, 15:22
I have a problem.. i think 1 is my egr valve.. not sure if that is common.
And my central locking remote doesn't work. I changed the battery and put it in ignition to reload it. Then it works for about 10 presses then stops again.. any idea?

HERC
14-03-2008, 21:24
1 thing I noticed with my MK4, not realy a problem, more a glitch

As I was a stereo nut, i often had the battery disconnected while I was working.
The thing I noticed was the electric windows would not work correctly after the battery was disconnected,

What happened was this,
When you discinnect the battery and reconnect it again the auto window up / down would not work
you know, when you press the window up / down switch for a second or more then let go, it would continue to go up / down.
This would not work and you had to keep the button pressed until the window was all the way up / down,
The realy bizzar thing was, after about 48 hours it started working again without doing anything...

HERC

robertcodfather
15-03-2008, 01:10
I have a problem.. i think 1 is my egr valve.. not sure if that is common.
And my central locking remote doesn't work. I changed the battery and put it in ignition to reload it. Then it works for about 10 presses then stops again.. any idea?

I Had the same problem with my Key fob,in the end i put a small piece of card in with the battery because after dropping the keys a few times the battery was not getting a tight connection, had no prob since

jiraffe
15-03-2008, 01:24
I Had the same problem with my Key fob,in the end i put a small piece of card in with the battery because after dropping the keys a few times the battery was not getting a tight connection, had no prob since

Most dealers do that :lol:

melv
15-03-2008, 10:53
The thing is.. its not been working for over 6 months. battery is new.. i put it in ignition pressed button, door locks and unlocks and it works for about 5 presses then doesn't any more.
My brothers friend got same car... same problem.

I an gonna clean out my egr valve soon.

jiraffe
15-03-2008, 10:59
Yeah clean the egr, as for your key fob oepn it up and put abit of paper or card in there and then i put it in ignition pressed button again that should sort it out if not your need a new fob (Y)

go nutz for donutz
28-03-2008, 19:22
hi from a newbie. can any 1 help. bought a 1999 1.7 diesel. have it 4 wks now. its very hard 2 start 1st thing in morning:-) have to crank nd crank it. i replaced glow plugs, worked fine 4 a day or 2. now back 2 normal. its my 1st diesel, so dont no much about them. car runs fine rest of day. would be gratefull 4 any help. cheers.

horror75
31-03-2008, 00:07
i had the to replace the thermastat on my 04 plate sxi

only problem was i couldn't get hold of one had to buy the complete housing and thermastat at a cost of £122 was told it is quite a common problem, which also brought light on dash on had to have that reset.

now i have the problem with the engine elictronics light coming on and going out after a few minutes, says in book that it's not a problem just ignore it but i can't it drives me nuts

had it pluged in to diagonostics and can't get it off

astralee
24-04-2008, 06:33
hi can anyone help,,,i have an astra 1.8 sport s reg,somtimes when cold when i pull off from a junction the car will hold back then all of a sudden it will go.have cleaned the throttle housing.any other ideas anyone????????????????????

astra07
01-05-2008, 08:32
I have a 2007 astra sport hatch sxi 1.6 and seem to have a strange creaking noise from the rear view mirror, i have taken off the mirror as it it just slides off and replaced this under warranty thinking this would be the end of it but the noise is still there, if i put pressure on the mirror upwards the noise goes away, underneat the mirror is a clip that i think is attached to the windscreen, dont know what to do now ?

Minty
01-05-2008, 20:16
Front seats dont always fully return to their original position on 3 door models and sometimes can be a pain to slide back.
Damn pain in the ass if ya got long legs!!

mid1607
02-05-2008, 12:12
Hi, Ive just had my Astra SRi 190 Turbo serviced (Oil, Oil filter, Air Filter, Fuel Filter and plugs).

I have noticed that the cars idle revs have lowered slightly and the engine slightly shakes every now and then whilst stationary....kindof like its going to stall but not as servere.

I thought it could be the car getting used to the new filters?

Any Ideas?

Cheers

astralee
03-05-2008, 22:55
Hi, Ive just had my Astra SRi 190 Turbo serviced (Oil, Oil filter, Air Filter, Fuel Filter and plugs).

I have noticed that the cars idle revs have lowered slightly and the engine slightly shakes every now and then whilst stationary....kindof like its going to stall but not as servere.

I thought it could be the car getting used to the new filters?

Any Ideas?

Cheers

hi mate,i had a similar problem on a mondeo once.i suspect that your coil pack may be faulty,check to see ifthe coil on your car is fitted properly .it may be that it is [breaking down].let me know,regards lee:)

robertcodfather
10-05-2008, 18:06
:'(Hi Everyone
I Have a 1.7 DOHC 16 valve Diesel (Isuzu Engine ) Mileage 101.900
Had a slight oil film in the water bottle from probably 80.000, ive got no overheating and the performance still seems ok engine starts and runs great with no problems
Only thing is now i am toping up the water bottle with about a litre of water every 1000 miles now and the oil in the bottle has got worse, can not see any external water leeks, ( is it my Head Gasket or could it be something else )
Kind Regards to you all
Rob

DUNKZ2006
11-05-2008, 11:33
im sorry to say it m8 but it does sound like the head gasket but funnily enough when i had my 1.7td i used to get oil scum in my water too but id clean it out with a rag and didnt see it again for a while then it would appear again on and off weird eh! it was on about 110k when i sold it and i know the lad who bought it off me its on about 140k now and he hasnt had no trouble with overheating etc still and hasnt had to do the head gasket so bit of a strange one :confused:(Y)

shy_stag
31-05-2008, 20:21
My head gasket went at 55,000 miles. Known problem until 2003, where it was changed to newer material. Whenever getting the T. belt changed, always get the water pump & its pulleys changed as well. Ignition block went at 60,000 miles. Again it's known for this fault.

edbarnett
31-05-2008, 21:17
Hi peeps

I'm experiencing stalling/engine cut out but only when the air con is on.

Just happens at idle for example :-

When slowing to stop she just dies

Or if at idle shes ok but struggles when a/con switched on & engine dies.

Both only happen when a/con is on Any thoughts ???

Reagrds

E:@

Purch_sri
06-06-2008, 08:04
hey guys and girls

having major problems my engine managment light will not turn off been on now for a cuple off days had it scanned and did not show anything any ideas

cheers

shed
06-06-2008, 09:01
i had a astra g 1.6 16v s reg 1998 cd before my xp astra heres the faults that i had with this car for you peeps
1 ECU BURNT OUT mileage 20995
2 EGR WENT mileage 25568
3 NSR REAR SPRING WENT 29258
4 FRONT DISCS 31128
5 FRONT WINDOW WIPER MOTOR mileage 33426
6 IGNITION MODULE mileage 39149
7 OFS REAR SPRING WENT mileage 39721
8 STARTER MOTOR WENT 53265
9 CRANKSHAFT SENSOR WENT mileage 62420
10 NSR REAR SPRING WENT MILEAGE 64851
11 STEARING COLUMN WENT mileage 82495
12 got rid of car
done all jobs myself but the ECU AS NEEDS TO BE REPROGRAMED this cost me form stealers 882.76 that was with trade discount too the cambelt change was in that too to be fair HOPE THIS HELPS YOU PEEPS

dj_geeza
11-06-2008, 11:32
Well, im new to the forum (hi!) just read this thread about common problems. For my sins, my astra g is a 1.4 16v and the problems i have encountered with it have been:

Brake fade on motorways (worse than in my old Punto sporting)

Head gasket went in spectacular style (sprayed all the fluids out of the engine in one go without warning! but i was idling, just went to pull away then BOOM! SPLAT! EXPLETIVES!) sorted that out, runs betters now lol.

Every time i start it, it idles at around 2- 2.5thoused revs, but all it takes to solve that is give it a rev to about 3.5 thousend and it idles loverly! (yes im Bristolian, sue me!)

I do actually wander if anyone could sugest a permenent fix for my high rev starts?? oh and my engine light comes on when its warmed up, stays on, goes off after a while then comes back on and stays on.

can someone PLEASE help me fix my poorly astra, i dont wanna have to buy a **** (yuk)

Stevie S
20-06-2008, 17:04
in the 1.7 diesels, the oil pump seizes up and knack the top end, when mine was getting done there was another diesel like mine with the same problem

also on all mk4 astras ive been told by a mechanic from vauxhall that the headlights condensing up, that is due to the rubber stops on the bonnet being too far down and crack the seal in the headlights

Rich7585
26-06-2008, 01:21
As you can see I have a 1.8 sport, 1998 model.

I too have the high rev problem on starting, not as bad as dj_geezer though. Mine occassionaly settles at about 15000 RPM (about 1 in 3-4 starts maybe) and then takes several minutes to settle down to the idle speed of just under 10000 RPM.

I have been told this is a common issue with this age of vauxhall and is something to do with the AFM, which would appear to make sense.

Both rear springs snapped on mine as well. I also have occassional TC/ABS warning lights that stay on after starting, this is due to a dodgy NS hub/loom connector. The OS hub had to be replaced due to a similar but more serious issue but other than that haven't heard of this problem from anyone else.

Hope this helps.

toesonthenose
29-06-2008, 16:50
i thinkthe fuel pumps often fail on the diesel engines, mine has just gone on my 1.7 dt ls astra van, everyone i tell says its a common thing to happen and a costly one! any advice on this is greatfully recieved .

joehosif
21-07-2008, 12:54
hi im looking to buy an astra. This is a scarey thread for me lol.
Dnt care they are lefal. still getting 1

Michty_me
23-07-2008, 09:37
What about the Boost Control Solenoids needing replaced every so often on the GSi and SRi-T

tomelmer
24-07-2008, 14:50
Z16XE:

EGR Valve fault : Part number: 17200272 + Gasket 24411213

Coli pack faults: Part number : 19005212


Z16SE:

Common ECU fault : Exchange part no: R1560007

mcd840
31-07-2008, 00:32
ecu is common with the g's just replaced mines! dont forget the re-call on the z16se for the egr valve dissablement!

LADmachining
12-08-2008, 17:35
More problems I remember from my days working on Astra-G's :

X16SZR (1.6 8V)

+ ECU Problems - symptoms would range from random EGR faults through to complete failure

X20DTL/H

+Failure to check oil level regularly and allowing it to get low will wreck the camshaft driven vacuum pump, resulting in EML on due to EGR faults (caused by ECU not seeing a difference in flow readings due to there being no vacuum to operate EGR/boost/swirl solenoids).

+EGR/Boost/Swirl control solenoids badly positioned, which means that the vent pipe draws in water flicked up by the driveshaft, causing failure and EML on.

+Glow plugs fail, causing EML on, then problems when removing the offending plug and it snaps off in the head. Soak with WD40 and try to remove with engine hot.

+Failure of glow control unit giving EML on. No amount of replacement glowplugs will cure this!!

+Sticking of EGR valve/swirl control flaps due to soot build-up. Sometimes replacement is the only cure.

+Air flow meters defective, although EGR problems can cause an AFM fault indication.


Y20DTH

This is the engine I have in my current G, and it is slightly different to the X20DTH, with a different EGR valve, different Injection pump etc. I have only had glow plug issues to date (touches wood).

Anthony

leesaul
13-08-2008, 17:11
What problems are common on an astra 888 2002 petrol????

Also how do you find out (if you can) what number in the production line your astra 888 is, as i've had two and have no idea!

Lee

andyscott1547
23-08-2008, 12:47
My seat squeaks too,but does anybody have a problem with teh drivers seat,the materials wearing away,and trying to find a replcement seat is hard because everywhere ive been has the same wear.anyone know of a place i could get the seat refurbed?

Zyras
25-08-2008, 03:47
I think everyones seat squeaks mate, answer i found was WD40 :thumbs:

Think there was a thread on this a while back.

Danny_SXI
27-08-2008, 18:15
Coil pack and EGR valve went last week.

Thats the only problems av had.

X16SZR & Z16XE EGR's can be deleted though X16XEL can't.

Quoconvertible
02-09-2008, 17:00
my clutch is sticky i think.. well it sort of locks in gear when u balance it or hold the clutch down at traffic lights.
took it to garage and all they said is your not suppose to hold the clutch down. take it out gear and put handbrake on. annoying though when in traffic or tryin to dip clutch while reversing down the alley to my garage. i got to turn off car to get it out of gear. ( its like it started to release and move forward even with feet on clutch. only my foot on brake to hold car from moving).
Any suggestions at all?

might be worth getting your clutch slave cylinder checked out, sounds like the seals are failing allowing the fluid to escape past, thus.. releasing the clutch slightly ? either that or the clutch master cylinder (where the clutch pedal is )

if ya clutch is engaging slightly even though your stationary, it could wear out your clutch prematurely.

Quoconvertible
02-09-2008, 17:03
does anyones temp guage take a while to get up to temp ??

another astra g common problem is the thermostats failing in the open position, takes a while to get up to temp and never really hits that 90 degree mark line. this also reduces your MPG too, not by much, but i noticed.

VAUXBEN
04-09-2008, 11:48
ERG Valves Fail on all Ecotec engines,
i've had several Vauxhalls that this has happened can happen as soon as every 6000 miles if your heavy on your right pedal, cost bout 70 quid straight from vauxhall

joehosif
22-10-2008, 22:02
Hi 1.7dti eco4 (isuzu engine) starter and ecu went at same time.
vauxhall starters seem to be a common fault over the range and the ecu is often a fault on the isuzu engine new one is £500 + programming but old one can be repaired for £250

jayw
04-12-2008, 23:56
I put a post on the technical thread about our Astra G, 2003 (03) 2.0 DTI Sri, here's the basic gist of it:

Bought Oct 2006 (Network Q).
All going beautifully until -
July 2007 : New siren needed due to alarm going off
Sept 2007 (just before Network Q ran out): Leaking rear shock found when new tyres fitted. Both shocks replaced by Network Q
Oct 2007: Network Q cover expired.
Feb 2008: New belt needed. (cost £85 fitted). Whilst being done it was found front pads and disks needed in near future.
Mar 2008: Passed MOT OK but warned rear pads and disks needed doing soon.
April 2008: Front and rear pads and disks replaced (cost £235 fitted)
June 2008: Front o/s spring broke. (Yes! Front, not rear as most seem to have problem with). Cost £135 fitted.
Sept 2008: Died on me. Kept kangarooing then cutting out then stopped completely. Turns out the injector pump's given up the ghost. Quoted £1300 + labour for Bosch pump or £2000 + labour for Vauxhall one. It's been serviced as required and fuel not run below 1/4 full. I usually fill at Tescos and someone posted here that the pumps go if 'crap fuel' used, and listed Tesco as one of the guilty ones.
Looking at the postings here it seems like the siren and pump are really common problems.
We're not repairing it, it's going for scrap. If we do repair it, what's going to happen next with it? Still have a year on loan I took out for it, so will have to amalgamate this into a new loan for another car.
Big question - another Astra? Petrol a better bet than the diesel ones?
Go for a totally different make and avoid Vauxhall? Get a 1.7 instead of a 2.0?
Don't know what to do but it certainly looks like the diesels have a whole heap of problems known.
jayw

VAUXBEN
07-12-2008, 19:19
I put a post on the technical thread about our Astra G, 2003 (03) 2.0 DTI Sri, here's the basic gist of it:

Bought Oct 2006 (Network Q).
All going beautifully until -
July 2007 : New siren needed due to alarm going off
Sept 2007 (just before Network Q ran out): Leaking rear shock found when new tyres fitted. Both shocks replaced by Network Q
Oct 2007: Network Q cover expired.
Feb 2008: New belt needed. (cost £85 fitted). Whilst being done it was found front pads and disks needed in near future.
Mar 2008: Passed MOT OK but warned rear pads and disks needed doing soon.
April 2008: Front and rear pads and disks replaced (cost £235 fitted)
June 2008: Front o/s spring broke. (Yes! Front, not rear as most seem to have problem with). Cost £135 fitted.
Sept 2008: Died on me. Kept kangarooing then cutting out then stopped completely. Turns out the injector pump's given up the ghost. Quoted £1300 + labour for Bosch pump or £2000 + labour for Vauxhall one. It's been serviced as required and fuel not run below 1/4 full. I usually fill at Tescos and someone posted here that the pumps go if 'crap fuel' used, and listed Tesco as one of the guilty ones.
Looking at the postings here it seems like the siren and pump are really common problems.
We're not repairing it, it's going for scrap. If we do repair it, what's going to happen next with it? Still have a year on loan I took out for it, so will have to amalgamate this into a new loan for another car.
Big question - another Astra? Petrol a better bet than the diesel ones?
Go for a totally different make and avoid Vauxhall? Get a 1.7 instead of a 2.0?
Don't know what to do but it certainly looks like the diesels have a whole heap of problems known.
jayw

this maybe true of the astra G but the astra H's are pretty good

astarix
09-12-2008, 22:14
[QUOTE=ZS;253472]1.7DTi:

Hi, you are right, infact I'm searching to buy the injector tubes and the head gasket kit, the cylinder head gasket I managed to find. Can anyone help me find from where I can buy online please?

jayw
10-12-2008, 21:43
this maybe true of the astra G but the astra H's are pretty good

Thanks for that - but the 'H' is the sports hatch I believe? Unfortunately I really don't like them to look at and wouldn't want one. Hate the shape. It's not just the Astra sports hatch, can't stand any of them by any manufacturer. If it wasn't for the fact that Mitsubishi are apparently not so reliable as other Japanese makes, and also VERY expensive to repair, I'd take a test drive in a Lancer as it's much like the Astra G - but I don't want to go from the frying pan into the fire. Only discovered recently that the Astra 'G' finished in 2004 so even if I hadn't had the problems I've had, I wouldn't get another Astra when replacing this one unless they still did one that looks like the 'G'. I know ultimately it's enjoying the drive that counts (preferably when you feel you can trust the car not to break down!) but it's important to like the car too. Looks like our Vauxhall days are numbered. Oh how my heart yearns for our old Cavalier Sri (mk II) .....

:'(

hagz_SRi02
15-05-2009, 09:45
Only problems Ive had so far has been the engine management light stayed on for an hour or so then stopped and nothing was wrong? Hasnt happened since and have had no problems after that.

Danny_SXI
18-05-2009, 18:45
Seen a few where front brake pipes have corroded where they bend under the chassis.

jayw
18-05-2009, 19:32
You don't say! My model's an SRI... :shock:

Anyway will put what you said in about the calipers :thumbs:


Yeah, mine's an SRI too - and the front o/s spring broke last year (amongst other things! A 5 year old car,heck....)

mzungu
08-07-2009, 12:53
egr valve is a very common problem better just to un plug it or end up with a big bill from main dealer for remapping the ecu by un plugging it the management light will come on but i can live with that rather than a big bill or car cutting out at high speeds

weedan
14-07-2009, 15:01
does all astra g's make a jet engine noise wen powered down, i fink its cool lol

robbielogan
12-08-2009, 11:21
z22xe lumpy idle problem caused by either clocked throttle body, knackered egr valve or other.

Souleh
21-08-2009, 01:03
does all astra g's make a jet engine noise wen powered down, i fink its cool lol

Lol mine does! havent a clue what it is but its pretty mad

gingerj_uk
28-08-2009, 15:22
haha I love that noise. 'Mission control we have landed.'


Lol mine does! havent a clue what it is but its pretty mad

chunk1
04-10-2009, 20:01
Front wipers stop working properly, stop where they like its a pest! happens on most astra G I have been told

Zyras
04-10-2009, 20:36
haha I love that noise. 'Mission control we have landed.'

Ditto, seems to be harmless and it does sound nice :)

Phaidor
17-12-2009, 21:04
Complete loss of oil-pressure at 107,000 miles! Strip down revealed that the nut securing the oil pump pulley to the shaft had simply fallen off allowing the pulley to idle on the shaft. This is apparently a known fault. Unfortunately I had already bought a new pump and so I fitted it but the original one was in perfect condition! I used 'Loctite' to secure the nut and all is well after 4,000 miles.

Jay 1.8 SXi
20-01-2010, 13:17
My experiences with my 2003 Astra 1.8 SXi have been good so far.

I bought the car 4 years ago with 15k on the clock.

Apart from a few niggles the car has been faultless!

The original back tyres lasted 44000 miles, the rear brake pads did 50000 miles and the original front pads need doing in the next few months. I've had a few problems with the handbrake sticking on, but only when it's well below freezing. The back box is getting a bit scabby so that'll need doing soon. My seat squeeks as well so I'm gonna get the WD40 on that.

The only major thing that has gone wrong was the rear coil springs had snapped when it went for it's MOT last week. £100 pounds later and all was well.

I have the car serviced once a year which is about 10000 miles and had the cambelt and water pump done at 36000 miles.

Other than the above it has been faultless. Best car I've ever owned, apart from a V6 Vectra I once had. :thumbs:

jdscot
19-08-2010, 18:17
Run down on my faults the i've had (bought car at 88k.)

1. EGR Valve died. (£55 replaced.)
2. brake pipes need done soon.
3. brake switch. (£33 quid.)

That's it not bad for an 02 plate. now with 117k on the clock. Although the previous owner had replaced quite a bit on it before finally selling it to me.

I love my astra!!!!!!!!!!!!

astra-sxi-boy
28-09-2010, 00:25
can some1 please help me?..... when im driving at a normal speed my car just jumps and it sometimes struggles to start and uses a lot of juice too. i thought it was mis-firing so i changed the spark plugs and coil pack but no joy

astra-sxi-boy
28-09-2010, 00:48
Well, im new to the forum (hi!) just read this thread about common problems. For my sins, my astra g is a 1.4 16v and the problems i have encountered with it have been:

Brake fade on motorways (worse than in my old Punto sporting)

Head gasket went in spectacular style (sprayed all the fluids out of the engine in one go without warning! but i was idling, just went to pull away then BOOM! SPLAT! EXPLETIVES!) sorted that out, runs betters now lol.

Every time i start it, it idles at around 2- 2.5thoused revs, but all it takes to solve that is give it a rev to about 3.5 thousend and it idles loverly! (yes im Bristolian, sue me!)

I do actually wander if anyone could sugest a permenent fix for my high rev starts?? oh and my engine light comes on when its warmed up, stays on, goes off after a while then comes back on and stays on.

can someone PLEASE help me fix my poorly astra, i dont wanna have to buy a **** (yuk)


my revs did that mate i reset the idle valve or summin by disconnecting the batter for 10 mins then reconnect it put ya ignition on turn ignition off then start the car let me know if it works buddy :-)

supertaf
18-07-2011, 13:36
Hey guys just thought I would share my Astra experiences.
We have a 2001 1.6 16V CD with factory LPG that has done 236000 on same clutch and headgasket !!
Had to spend a fair bit on having the gas overhauled but without that it's a fairly pointless car to have as it's the cheap fuel that attracts.
Ensured that it is serviced correctly.
Still looks great in velvet green metallic and always gets straight through MOT - never failed !

I also ran a 2007 CDTI club from new as a company car and did 175200 in 3 years again virtually trouble free. Had to have new radiator as a stone cracked it, new rear wiper motor and new air con condenser.
No running trouble and looked great when it went back
Again, serviced correctly.

The moral here seems to be looking after the car correctly pays in the long run - the number of headgaskets that I see having gone at fairly low mileage is shocking, it must be just poor maintenence surely?

Michty_me
18-07-2011, 14:58
That's a fair amount of mileage you have clocked up in two cars :thumbs:
I agree, Serviced correctly and regularly and you should be fine.

thcoms
11-09-2011, 09:36
Had mine just under a yr with 65000 on the clock & I have replaced

OS drop link
OS front brake caliper
2x front tyres
complete gearbox
new clutch inc release bearing
Front wiper linkage

this cost just over £1000 & my MOT is due nxt month, cant wait to see what thats going to cost!!

ibrahimx2001
15-09-2011, 02:33
Had mine just under a yr with 65000 on the clock & I have replaced

OS drop link
OS front brake caliper
2x front tyres
complete gearbox
new clutch inc release bearing
Front wiper linkage

this cost just over £1000 & my MOT is due nxt month, cant wait to see what thats going to cost!!

:lol:
i think thats a common problem on every car :lol:

Esgargoth
07-10-2011, 15:06
I have a couple of problems with an 1.4 njoy (long story as to how i got it)
Anyways first is the suspension knocking, i had a broken bolt on the gearbox so i was told and this was fixed, although i can't remember if i still had the knock after it was fixed, it's back however and now i read it could be the The drop links?

Secondly, the car seems to have a lack of power at about 2000 rpm,
first gear nothing till 2000 then whiplash as though i have just floored the accelarator.
second is the same, not a hint of decent power untill after 2000 then it picks up quite rapidly.
On the odd occasion when starting, the revs will jump up to 4000 or 5000 and sit like that for a couple of seconds before settling back to the auto choke of about 1200.
Then if traveling along slowly at about the 2000 mark the car will start to speed up and slow down like it's getting sporadic bursts of fuel.
This is a last attempt before i send it to the scrap heap so any and all advice would be greatly welcomed.

Nadine
16-10-2011, 19:56
didnt read all the way through but apologise if this is already covered. I have a 1.6 SXI 53 plate

Had to replace ecu car only done 60k miles. when car got to certain temp it would cut out and not start again untill it cooled down.

I was told that this was a common fault

I only had it 4 months and i had to replace ecu, 2 drop links, fuel pump. Now my brake discs seem to be warping all the time. I only replced them 2k miles ago and when i press the brakes i get a shuddering through the wheels

mikephillips
22-01-2012, 01:34
lol hmm better sell up lol

justme
22-02-2012, 10:35
1.6 8v seems to be over cooled leading to mayo type build up under oil cap, seems to be a common problem on this engine - though it was the head gasket until some research.

Throttle body gets clogged up alot, but had this on my vectra as well.

Coil pack fails

thermostat stays in open position and counter only rises when sat stationary but falls again when moving - apparently only fixable by removing timing belt to get at it!!!

All in all a good car

Alex Davies
21-03-2012, 01:14
Minus the common experience:

*Stiff rear spring
*Rear brake pipes corrosion


Cosmetic wise, without a code reader to hand, as im not going to short the pins and count...
I've got a little bit of ticking near the fuel injectors/possibly sparks/dissy when running and the idle is occasionally a very little bit lumpy (20rpm max), the accelerator when pushed very gently but constantly theres a drop in voltage by a volt --- is that usual for an initial draw? and when released from about 1600rpm within a couple of seconds or so, can almost cause a stall or at least a little engine judder. (possible its a valve/sensor readjusting or the alternator compensating) --- never know properly without a code reader, a cheap ELM327 (version 1.4) interface has been ordered.

I appear to have become a little paranoid about a few things to diagnose this issue, so feel free to send a virtual slap...



Heres the electrical problem I'm having don't know if anyone else has experienced this, and this may be a little too techy for this area, if so accept my apologies and feel free to move it elsewhere:


X16XEL engine, 2000 Astra G 1.6i 16v CD (with the KWP2000 MULTEC(H)/X16XEL ECU)


Seemingly dead battery overnight phonomenon --- left the car with about 12v (its a brand new 12v battery)

hear clicking and very occasional whirring, when trying to crank it, ensured the alarm and immoby isnt on, radio doesnt have a remote line pin connected (so only starts on ignition) .... I've checked to make sure glovebox, boot and interior lights are going out fully.

Left it for about 18 hours, and its down to 9v, of course the drain leads to a dim interior light... it's a brand new battery, and a charger shows battery is full and it gave off about 12v, so i've taken it out, charged it overnight for a slow charge...

It could be the new battery being faulty... however im not so sure... as the new battery was brought(with manufacturer plugs on) to fix the exact same problem?


Today, I plugged the batt back in, after cleaning the clamp terminals, Checked it gives off 12.7v on a multimeter


alternator tested on a bosch kit --- also testing the battery clamps are on properly.... alt and volt regulator passed fine, passed the ripple test, and under full load, its got a brand new starter motor, on a moderately warm day, probably worse on a cold day since the car tends to idle towards 1600rpm briefly til it warms up...

I've checked and cleaned battery connections and checked the earths (apart from gearbox earth) and that the fan does turn off after 5 mins or so (it only turns on if the ignition is on, and will only drain 0.3v when the battery is slowly discharging the alternator load, so that was due to be discharged anyway)


Maxiblade fuses burning like a gooden:
In the under hood fusebox, F7 - Electrohydraullic PAS fuse (80A) has burnt itself rather excessively, but not popped, it may explain why it felt light on one side of the steering occasionally and there was a steering judder at 70mph, which has now settled slightly... (mixed in with the rear spring stiffness, macpherson strut play at upper bush and the tracking or wheel alignment slightly off, but none of those are excessive)

the same has happened in the under dashboard fusebox: fuse 2 (30A for fan) and fuse 3 (40A for heated rear window) --- seemingly replaced before... judging by the spares the previous owner left in there!

I have, today, replaced those fuses and checked the others... fuses appear fine now


Also in the under dash fusebox, small amount of burning on the rear wiper and heated rear window relays, excessive burn on one of the windscreen wiper relay pins.


Bit of an intermittent problem with leccy window switches not 'auto opening', but will open and close fully, if the switch is held (probably unrelated).

Did have a small glitch where the boot locking motor would not open for love nor money, turning the key motor goes, but wouldnt unlock, a bit of wiggle has sorted that. (possible relation, but doubtful, never had the problem before, but time will tell if it's sorted)


I'm aware the cat. may need replacing some time soon (unrelated?)

Tomorrow if i have a dead battery or its lower than 11.5v, I'll be checking the under hood relays and replacing the windscreen wiper relay. Cleaning those battery terminals again so they're almost sterile and kept sterile! and tracing the battery cables and possibly giving them a test too! Fun!

Anybody got any suggestions on what this could be/might be?

Apart from the dead battery, gearbox to earth, relays, battery cables... where/how else to check without a code reader(til it arrives)?

Alex Davies
21-03-2012, 17:35
An ODD discovery, replacing those MaxiBlade fuses (Hydro PAS, fan and rear heated window) has stopped the overnight drain! And the car has started multiple times after.

I cant understand why anyone would program an ECU to prevent the starter motor from kicking in or to 'forget to regulate the PAS, fan --- for more than the temperature sensor needs, or rear heated window circuit when the ignition is not on - they are the most used and the PAS has the highest amperage out of all the fused circuits!)

Also did a slow battery charge over night, with a 'new battery' --- is it common you need to charge a battery when you buy it these days?... which helped the battery retain a higher rate...

Check the fuses, even if they are only slightly burnt, its cheaper than chasing your tail!

You watch, something'll happen tomorrow! and i'll scream!

UPDATE: Not tomorrow but the day after... smelt a bit of burning, immediately checking the fuses, sure enough its the fan fuse, the other fuses i replaced were fine and still working properly, must have been a big overcurrent, it melted a hole through the shielding where the fuse was! The fuse I had put in also kicked the fan cycle in when the ignition was off...

Symptom: the temp gauge kept dropping and the fan would only kick in with the ignition, with the original 'solder strenthened' fuse --- did wonder why that was modified!!!

Wonder if its the fan/coolant relay ecu module (could also deal with the dash temp gauge? if im not mistaken) but then could also be the ECT sensor...

Or it could be the fan motor. We'll see if its the fan draining my battery even though its not cycling, even when the engine is hot, if the ignition isnt on!

Tymm911
14-08-2012, 20:15
Minus the common experience:

*Stiff rear spring
*Rear brake pipes corrosion


Cosmetic wise, without a code reader to hand, as im not going to short the pins and count...
I've got a little bit of ticking near the fuel injectors/possibly sparks/dissy when running and the idle is occasionally a very little bit lumpy (20rpm max), the accelerator when pushed very gently but constantly theres a drop in voltage by a volt --- is that usual for an initial draw? and when released from about 1600rpm within a couple of seconds or so, can almost cause a stall or at least a little engine judder. (possible its a valve/sensor readjusting or the alternator compensating) --- never know properly without a code reader, a cheap ELM327 (version 1.4) interface has been ordered.

I appear to have become a little paranoid about a few things to diagnose this issue, so feel free to send a virtual slap...



Heres the electrical problem I'm having don't know if anyone else has experienced this, and this may be a little too techy for this area, if so accept my apologies and feel free to move it elsewhere:


X16XEL engine, 2000 Astra G 1.6i 16v CD (with the KWP2000 MULTEC(H)/X16XEL ECU)


Seemingly dead battery overnight phonomenon --- left the car with about 12v (its a brand new 12v battery)

hear clicking and very occasional whirring, when trying to crank it, ensured the alarm and immoby isnt on, radio doesnt have a remote line pin connected (so only starts on ignition) .... I've checked to make sure glovebox, boot and interior lights are going out fully.

Left it for about 18 hours, and its down to 9v, of course the drain leads to a dim interior light... it's a brand new battery, and a charger shows battery is full and it gave off about 12v, so i've taken it out, charged it overnight for a slow charge...

It could be the new battery being faulty... however im not so sure... as the new battery was brought(with manufacturer plugs on) to fix the exact same problem?


Today, I plugged the batt back in, after cleaning the clamp terminals, Checked it gives off 12.7v on a multimeter


alternator tested on a bosch kit --- also testing the battery clamps are on properly.... alt and volt regulator passed fine, passed the ripple test, and under full load, its got a brand new starter motor, on a moderately warm day, probably worse on a cold day since the car tends to idle towards 1600rpm briefly til it warms up...

I've checked and cleaned battery connections and checked the earths (apart from gearbox earth) and that the fan does turn off after 5 mins or so (it only turns on if the ignition is on, and will only drain 0.3v when the battery is slowly discharging the alternator load, so that was due to be discharged anyway)


Maxiblade fuses burning like a gooden:
In the under hood fusebox, F7 - Electrohydraullic PAS fuse (80A) has burnt itself rather excessively, but not popped, it may explain why it felt light on one side of the steering occasionally and there was a steering judder at 70mph, which has now settled slightly... (mixed in with the rear spring stiffness, macpherson strut play at upper bush and the tracking or wheel alignment slightly off, but none of those are excessive)

the same has happened in the under dashboard fusebox: fuse 2 (30A for fan) and fuse 3 (40A for heated rear window) --- seemingly replaced before... judging by the spares the previous owner left in there!

I have, today, replaced those fuses and checked the others... fuses appear fine now


Also in the under dash fusebox, small amount of burning on the rear wiper and heated rear window relays, excessive burn on one of the windscreen wiper relay pins.


Bit of an intermittent problem with leccy window switches not 'auto opening', but will open and close fully, if the switch is held (probably unrelated).

Did have a small glitch where the boot locking motor would not open for love nor money, turning the key motor goes, but wouldnt unlock, a bit of wiggle has sorted that. (possible relation, but doubtful, never had the problem before, but time will tell if it's sorted)


I'm aware the cat. may need replacing some time soon (unrelated?)

Tomorrow if i have a dead battery or its lower than 11.5v, I'll be checking the under hood relays and replacing the windscreen wiper relay. Cleaning those battery terminals again so they're almost sterile and kept sterile! and tracing the battery cables and possibly giving them a test too! Fun!

Anybody got any suggestions on what this could be/might be?

Apart from the dead battery, gearbox to earth, relays, battery cables... where/how else to check without a code reader(til it arrives)?

Do you have climate control, if yes then when you turn off the car listen to hear if you can hear the cabin heater fan, if you can then you´ll need a new final stage resonator(hedgehog) and that would drain your battery but I don´t know how quick

serenitycowboy
18-01-2013, 11:07
HI guys, i have a short story. I Live in Spain and bough a non starter immaculate Astra G 2.0 diesel. Originally diagnosed with a knackered Turbo, Which i know will not stop it from starting, i found that the fuel pressure coming form the FIP Pipes was very low. Various "experts" told me that the FIP (Fuel injection pump) was goosed as is normal for "G"s. It was cheaper for me to take an engine complete, form a very good runner, and install it in mine. Still wont start! ok next step chase teh threads and was advised to change the immobiliser, Anttenea and top off the FIP. Still wont start. engine ECU changed, still no hope, The girlfirend is beating me to death about the expenses and with seperation looming i need some help please! Please please!!!!!!!!
Andy

LukeCoupeT
18-01-2013, 11:20
HI guys, i have a short story. I Live in Spain and bough a non starter immaculate Astra G 2.0 diesel. Originally diagnosed with a knackered Turbo, Which i know will not stop it from starting, i found that the fuel pressure coming form the FIP Pipes was very low. Various "experts" told me that the FIP (Fuel injection pump) was goosed as is normal for "G"s. It was cheaper for me to take an engine complete, form a very good runner, and install it in mine. Still wont start! ok next step chase teh threads and was advised to change the immobiliser, Anttenea and top off the FIP. Still wont start. engine ECU changed, still no hope, The girlfirend is beating me to death about the expenses and with seperation looming i need some help please! Please please!!!!!!!!
Andy


for the sake of your relationship stop for a lil while and tend to the mrs mate, what would you rather loose your mrs or the motor!, and from what youve explained therre fella i cant really give you any ideas or help,

i dont no what engine it is, nor the year, does it have fuel spark and do the dash lights come on, does it tick over and/or crank over if so is there fuel getting threw, rough guess i would hesitate at is the fuel pump in the fuel tank as that what pumps the fuel down your line.

all the info i can really give fella, also open a new thread in the Astra G section Pal and either i or some one will be along to try sort your problem out,


and good luck with the Mrs mate they come be for any car!

KAWAREX
07-04-2013, 14:26
We've had the engine management light come on every now and then seems to be on a longer than normal run (it only travels to my girlfriends place of work, about 5 miles there and back each day) but then goes off next time we go out in the car. It doesn't seem to run differently when it's on either so i'm guessing it's not a major fault possibly a dodgy sensor or loose wire/connector ?? But today we went out and the battery warning light came on and flickered, then the enginge management, then a host of warning lights and the gauges stopped then came back on and the steering went mega heavy !! Just got back home on the drive and it conked out, wouldn't satrt like a totally dead battery. The auxillary belt is ok and nothing seems adrift.
Put a meter on the battery and it only showed 11.5 volts. I put this on a few months ago and should be a good battery. ?? I had a spare second hand Bosch silver calcium battrey in the garage so i put this in and it started so ran it for a minute then turned it off. Went to restart it and it was reluctant but fired, it is now tickking over lumpy and the ecu light is on ?? When i turn the ignition to on there is a whining sound that i can only describe a jet engine starting up and getting quicker, seems to be from low down at the rear of the right hand side of the engine bay ( viewed from the front ). I have put it on charge for now and will have a mooch later this afternoon, any ideas ??

Esgargoth
08-04-2013, 08:08
We've had the engine management light come on every now and then seems to be on a longer than normal run (it only travels to my girlfriends place of work, about 5 miles there and back each day) but then goes off next time we go out in the car. It doesn't seem to run differently when it's on either so i'm guessing it's not a major fault possibly a dodgy sensor or loose wire/connector ?? But today we went out and the battery warning light came on and flickered, then the enginge management, then a host of warning lights and the gauges stopped then came back on and the steering went mega heavy !! Just got back home on the drive and it conked out, wouldn't satrt like a totally dead battery. The auxillary belt is ok and nothing seems adrift.
Put a meter on the battery and it only showed 11.5 volts. I put this on a few months ago and should be a good battery. ?? I had a spare second hand Bosch silver calcium battrey in the garage so i put this in and it started so ran it for a minute then turned it off. Went to restart it and it was reluctant but fired, it is now tickking over lumpy and the ecu light is on ?? When i turn the ignition to on there is a whining sound that i can only describe a jet engine starting up and getting quicker, seems to be from low down at the rear of the right hand side of the engine bay ( viewed from the front ). I have put it on charge for now and will have a mooch later this afternoon, any ideas ??

Hi, just a quick but possibly obvious question, have you checked the Alternator? Just with the dead battery and lumpy running, sounds like it's not working..

KAWAREX
08-04-2013, 15:29
Hi i fitted a fully charged Bosch silver calcium battery today, the car started fine took it for a run round the block (literally) and the traction control/abs warning was coming on and off, then all the clocks when haywire flickering but no battery/alternator warning light. The power steering then failed and was mega stiff. I only just made it back onto the drive and the car wouldn't start, totally dead battery ?? Not sure if the power steering pump is causing this as i mentioned earlier there is a lound whistling/whining sound coming from that area with the engine off but the ignition on ??!! Going to have a mooch round that area now, would have to happen at the end of my days off.

KAWAREX
08-04-2013, 15:59
Went back to the car and it try to start but didn't quite fire up. Turned the ignition off and the coolong fan began to run although the car isn't hot ?? Turned the ignition back to on and it stopped. The power steering pump is whining like mad until it came to a near stop and is just clicking quickly. There is also a clicking noise coming from the throttle body area .Turned it off again and the cooling fan began to run ??!! Confused now i think i will have to invest in a code reader before throwing a pile of parts at it. Any suggestions on a good type or are these £20 odd quid ones any good off ebay ??

KAWAREX
08-04-2013, 16:53
Since the last post i've had the battery on charge at a standard rate and the battery is already showing 13V so whatever is at faults is a high amperage load i think. So alternator or power steering pump is looking favourite at the mo also when charging the fan has stopped ?? When erindoors gets home i will start it and see what the charging circuit is like with the meter......

KAWAREX
08-04-2013, 20:17
Right...tried the meter across the terminals of the battery and it doesn't register more than 12.2V regardless of revs. I take it this should be upto 13.5V ish as other cars ?? So it's looking like an alternator issue any help would be much appreciated as there is one on ebay at a sensible price.

LukeCoupeT
11-04-2013, 14:49
Right...tried the meter across the terminals of the battery and it doesn't register more than 12.2V regardless of revs. I take it this should be upto 13.5V ish as other cars ?? So it's looking like an alternator issue any help would be much appreciated as there is one on ebay at a sensible price.

hi mate if you stick up a thread in the correct area then im sure some one will reply

KAWAREX
12-04-2013, 16:30
Cheers luke i've now sorted it i fitted a used alternator and all seems ok now charging at 14.4V

LukeCoupeT
12-04-2013, 17:23
Cheers luke i've now sorted it i fitted a used alternator and all seems ok now charging at 14.4V


sweet good to hear fella.

lottie
21-07-2013, 14:59
Anyone know of any common problems with the 1.8 bertone convertible?


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LukeCoupeT
21-07-2013, 19:28
Anyone know of any common problems with the 1.8 bertone convertible?


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the same common problems as any other MK4, rear springs tend to snap rust aroudn rear arches, and the usual, sometimes the roof motors can be a pain and break down but thats more of a rare thing for the soft tops

Jamie-SRI
02-01-2014, 23:20
Brake pipe corrosion !! What an annoying thing to have to get replaced grrr

Bogbrush
13-01-2014, 11:48
Yes. Its worth investing in a brake pipe tool and some copper-based pipe

migwell030744
18-01-2014, 01:31
I had a 51 1.6 8V bought with 3000 miles on it and the EGR valve was replaced three times by the time I sold it at 43000 miles.