: Haynes wiring diagrams
I'm trying to fit a new engine management wiring loom and ecu to my girlfriends Astra F S16XZE auto which has suffered fire damage (there is a previous thread somewhere)
I have managed to get a loom and ecu off e-bay, ecu is correct but the loom is off a manual car and is missing a few connections to the auto box.
Can anyone help me regarding the Haynes manual wiring diagrams. I'm trying to figure out what the ecu connections are. They have Id numbers next to the pins/terminals on the diagram. Do these match the numbers on the connectors on the car. In the diagram there is just one block, on the car the connection to the ecu is via two connector sockets. The Pins are marked from 1 to 14 (I think) on both rows of each socket and I'm trying to understand how this relates to the diagram.
I hope this makes sense.
Can you provide a scan/photo of part of the diagram so we can see what you are referring to?
I suspect you are right, and that the numbers correspond to the pin number of the ECU, but I would like to see a picture before confirming this! ;-)
Another way of confirming this is to find pin 1 on the diagram, and note the colour of the wire coming from it according to the diagram.
Then look for the pin marked '2', check the wire colour, and make sure it is next to the first pin on the ecu connector.
Hi, hope you can see this....
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
Its a bit big:)
The K57 box denotes the ecu and the various connections have an Id such as
A1, B13, D2 etc.
I don't have the car here at home so will have to go and check again. I guessing the A,B,C,D denotes which row of terminals on the connector sockets, I did look last night but it was dark.
That diagram is almost an exact copy of (if not the same as) the Vauxhall wiring diagrams of that era.
As you correctly state, the letters specify the rows, then the number is the position in that row.
You should be able to identify which is which by using the wire colours as a guide, cross referencing with neighbouring pins if unsure.
As you may or may not know, the additional wiring for the automatic transmission is labelled 'AT' on the diagram. A19, C18, B13 and B8 on the top row.
Did you find out the original cause of the wiring loom burn-up?
Thanks for that, its not quite as difficult a repair as I thought. I managed to get a loom and ECU of e-bay for £15 which I thought was quite good. The ecu is exactly the same as the one on our car and the loom differs in the last digit of the part number. Am assuming they came off a manual car.
I will have to add another green wire at the B13 pin. Do you think it would be OK to make the connection further up the loom in the engine bay for convenience rather than at the ecu plug as it is in the diagram?
We think that the loom might have jolted forward and started rubbing on the rear airbox mounting bracket. Don't know how long this had been going on for. It probably was as a result of a minor shunt which resulted in a creased bumper and new headlamp although Vauxhall repaired the damaged but they did'nt spot anything (don't know if they would normally checkthough). Having siad that we have only had the car about two months so it may have been damaged before. Will probably make a bracket to support the loom better in this area. Don't want to have to do this all again.
The green wire from B13 is present on manual and auto vehicles - it is for the rev counter (DZM - DrehZahlMeter).
This wire is only present in the kick panel of the vehicle near the ECU, where the signal is taken off to the instrument panel through a small square connector. Be careful about finding other green wires in the loom - there are others according to the wiring diagram. Pin A2 to the idle speed actuator is one example.
Can you confirm again the engine code? The code in your post above seems wrong - I suspect it should be X16SZR.
Don't know where I got the S from. It is an X16SZR. I forgot to make a note of this but I think there was two green wires sharing the same terminal on the ECU on our car but on the replacement loom the corresponding terminal only has one green wire.
I will have to look again tomorrow. So far I have removed the damaged loom, added the red & black wire to the Rev counter and connected the replacement loom which is exactly the same as the auto loom except for the rev counter connection and the connection to the auto box.
I have stripped the old loom to make certain that I am tracing the correct wires and have removed, up to the damaged section, the connector and wiring to the auto box. I will have to solder on some extra cable to connect them to the ecu and also salvage the ecu connector pins that fit the sockets.
Replaced the loom, reatached battery and found out that it was flat. Tried to jump start, all dash lights come on as normal and the starter turns the engine over but it will not fire up.
It looks like the ecu is broken. I will replace the battery just to check again then install the replacement ecu.
Will I have to have this ecu paired with the car (Tech 2 I think), if so can this be done without the unit installed (the nearest Vauxhall dealer is 40 miles away) it would be a lot easier if I did'nt have to worry about transporting the car.
Whether the ECU needs programming depends on whether the car has the transponder immobiliser fitted. This was fitted from model year 1995.
The keys with the square/rectangular plastic end do not have an immobiliser, the curved type have a transponder chip.
You could just fit the new ECU and see what happens. If it wants the immobiliser to programmed, then the engine management light will flash when the ignition is switched on. The ECU needs to be fitted to the car to program the immobiliser.
You may be able to find a mobile autoelectrician who could come to you and program-up the system, if necessary.
Well I have finally fitted an adapted engine loom, replacement ecu and a new battery to the car and checked and double checked it all with the Haynes wiring diagram.
Keys in the ignition and all seems to be OK but the engine will spin over on the starter with no problems but will not start.
As a result of a phone call to a local dealer, they have advised that I will need a new ecu. I have already replaced this with one from e-bay which has the same part number as the original on our car.
The car has an imobiliser fitted (rounded type key). Am I right in thinking that the keys now have to be matched to the new ecu? How do I go about this? Or do I need the matching key for the replacement ecu?
I need to get this fixed ASAP as we have had to get a hire car so my girlfriend can get to work.
Hope someone can help. Thanks in advance.
Does the engine management light flash at you with the ignition switched on? If yes, this means the immobiliser is active. As you have mentioned, this is because the immobiliser needs programming to the new ECU.
The keys are programmed to the immobiliser ECU. The immob ECU is then programmed to the engine ECU. Your existing keys will work fine.
The programming is carried out using a diagnostic tool such as Tech2 (official Vauxhall tool) or an equivalent such as Vaux-com. Worth trying some local mobile autoelectricians as they often have the necessary kit to code the immobiliser.
You may also need the security code for the car - this should be on a grey card in the vehicle pack marked 'car pass'. If you don't have one, the code can be obtained from Vauxhall, but it will cost approx £20.
Hi. Tried it the other day.... Ignition on and the engine managment light does not come on at all, but the auto transmission light blinks. The engine spins over on the starter good enough but will not start. Have checked all connections again and all appeared to be good and in the right place.
I will be away working again this week so can't do very much. I have had all sorts of different opinions about this, from Vauxhall saying it needed a new ecu (another one) despite not inspecting the car, to an auto electrician saying the I needed the matching key and reader from the ecu donor car. I just think that Vauxhall are just looking to try pluging on various bits and pieces until they fix the fault and the prices they are quoting just are'nt worth it.
I guess I'm just getting a bit frustrated with it.....